The Loggia gets a reboot
Situated near the airport and Manila Bay, The Loggia, the outdoor dining space of Palacio de Memoria, offers a tranquil escape from the city’s bustling energy. Stepping onto the covered terrace of this historic mansion’s extension feels like entering an oasis, where good food, comfortable seating, and a well-manicured landscape create a welcoming ambiance.
As the famous Manila Bay sunset paints the sky in golden hues, the gentle breeze carries the enticing aromas of roasted suckling pig or Mediterranean dishes, enhancing the dining experience.
At the height of the pandemic in 2021, chef patron Margarita Forés negotiated with landlady Camille Lhuillier to take over The Loggia, recognizing the reduced health risks associated with outdoor dining. The menu features a blend of Italian and Mediterranean dishes, complementing the Spanish Revival architecture of Palacio de Memoria. Originally owned by the Villaroman family, the mansion was later acquired by the Lhuilliers, repurposed by design and art consultant Miguel Rosales, and has since hosted various events, exhibits, and auctions.
Recently, the Lhuilliers expanded the outdoor space to accommodate more diners. Forés collaborated with furniture and lighting designer Mark Wilson to reimagine the space. Inspired by the former owners’ mid-20th-century swimming excursions in Manila Bay and the Lhuilliers’ collection of blue-and-white Portuguese tiles, Wilson selected a matching marine color palette for the wicker seating.
The white furniture and woven wicker sets evoke the coastal towns of the Mediterranean. The 24-inch height of the new dining tables is inspired by Harry’s Bar in Venice, one of Forés’ favorite places. Wilson’s hanging pendant lamp, resembling illuminated rice sacks, is made of abaca jute with organza lining and gold-painted wood. The light can be adjusted to create a warm or seductive atmosphere.
Finest ingredients
These elements transport guests to the Mediterranean amid the hurried pace of Manila. Against this backdrop, Forés presents the essence of al fresco dining, highlighted by The Loggia’s dedication to using the finest local and imported ingredients.
She partners with local purveyors from Negros Occidental who provide creamy burrata, and farmers who raise pigs for roasting on-site. The menu features cochinillo, a roasted piglet, and the mild and buttery Philippine sea bass for those who prefer seafood. Forés notes that The Loggia offers unique preparations for the fish compared to other restaurants.
The menu celebrates the rich flavors of Mediterranean cuisine, such as the chuleton, a large rib-eye rubbed with Spanish sauce. The Loggia is the only outlet in her group of restaurants that serves paella, which is finished in a pizza oven for a smoky flavor.
The paella Valenciana has quality ingredients such as Manila clams, organic chicken, pork belly, and chorizo. The bottom of the paella pan is layered with socarrat, that crispy, caramelized layer of rice. The freshly made pastas are topped with bangus “sardines,” and homemade bacalao cooked in tomato sauce for an Iberian experience.
Diverse menu
During functions, Forés highlights the grazing cheese table, featuring Spanish, Italian, and Filipino cheeses, alongside hand-sliced delicate prosciutto and machine-sliced salted and aged cured meats, as a cornerstone offering at The Loggia’s al fresco buffets. The moist and subtly peppery roast beef tenderloin, folded over mozzarella and infused with rosemary and garlic, is a popular carving choice.
The menu is diverse, ranging from earthy braised lamb served with polenta to salads made with organic produce. The al fresco experience is enhanced by appetizers, fruity dips, and desserts. The Neapolitan pizzas, with their soft, round, thin dough and chewy edges topped with European cheeses and meats, are popular. The sisig, served with homemade corn tacos and a combination of barako and corn, is another popular choice.
The desserts complement the menu theme—a rich Spanish bread pudding, a refreshing lemon olive oil cake in mini pots, tangy Manchego cheesecake, and Pinoy Baguio ube crepe cake. The Mango Prosecco tiramisu offers a mango glaze with a fruity Prosecco-infused sabayon. For guests seeking a quick bite, Forés offers comforting rice bowls with Spam and other meats.
Beyond the food, al fresco dining exalts life and connection. At The Loggia, the relaxed ambiance invites diners to slow down, savor the moment, and relish good company.
Forés notes, “The grounds are conducive for celebrations.” Aside from weddings, it has become a popular venue for corporate events and family Sunday lunches. A tent accommodating 300 guests is available for inclement weather. The menu includes packages for six, combining various à la carte meals.
Attentive service ensures comfort and enjoyment. To further enhance the social aspects of al fresco dining, guests can linger at the Palacio de Memoria to admire its extensive religious and classical artworks or capture a selfie by the plane. Additionally, the option to relax on the patio after a meal with an Aperol spritz or prosecco allows one to extend the evening and relish good company under the stars.
