Andrew Walsh brings Butcher Boy to Makati
It was on that first bite of a crunchy, juicy chunk of fried chicken encased in pillow-soft bao that we knew we’d be coming back.
The exciting new spot in the vibrant Salcedo Village culinary scene has Michelin-starred chef Andrew Walsh bringing in his brand of “laid-back vibe dining” to Makati City. Butcher Boy, a nickname that has stuck with him from back in Ireland, first opened in Singapore nine years ago but recently closed up shop in search of a bigger venue there.
Walsh talked to Lifestyle about his decision to open a restaurant in Manila. “I think there is huge potential here. There’s an emerging scene of great young chefs and bartenders and baristas popping up. I can sense that there’s a hunger and desire from the public for it.” He continued that he also likes the fact that the Philippines is so close to Singapore, where he’s based with his Filipino girlfriend.
The location, he added, reminds him of Chinatown in Singapore and his first restaurant called Esquina. “This gives me great memories and just a really good kind of French feel. There’s a nice little community feel, and that’s why I feel this concept suits it,” he said. “I wanted to do my casual style. I don’t want it to be pretentious, I want it to be fun. You can pop in for a date night or a cocktail.”
Dinner date
In fact, the soft opening on Dec. 9 gave me and my husband the now-rare opportunity for a quick dinner date while our toddler napped at home (with his Nana present and a nanny cam trained on him, of course). The place is cozy; dim lighting and easy groove hip-hop music make it an inviting after-hours hangout place that’s perfectly conducive to relaxed conversations and shared meals. The intimate couches are enticing, but a seat at the bar gives you a front-row peep at the open kitchen. The crunch of the ice, clink of utensils and pans, and the lively gurgle of the deep fryer all add to the anticipation for a surprisingly filling dinner of bold “baos, buns, dumplings and more.”
The drizzly evening started out with a Mango Sparkle welcome drink that I could drink all night. The cocktails looked very pretty, but the non-alcoholic drinks offered strong and refreshing flavors as well.
For Tuna Ceviche, slices of tuna sashimi sit in a puddle of Vietnamese dressing, which tones down the acidity in favor of coconut milk, a surprisingly lovely combination. The dish even made me like coriander, which I usually set aside, as it adds a layer of flavor to the already exciting appetizer.
Fried Chicken Bao looked appetizing enough, although pretty unassuming. Yet a single bite had us already planning our return. The contrast in textures as well as flavors—fluffy white mounds of dough tempering the saltiness and kick of chili in the crunchy skin of the fried chicken as it mingles beautifully with the mild tanginess in the yuzu kosho mayo and apple and cabbage slaw, before getting to the succulent meat underneath—was sensational, and only the knowledge that we had more dishes coming stopped me from ordering another plate.
Flavors and textures
This magic with flavors and textures was likewise very present in the Seabass Yellow Curry, topped with crispy noodles and served with steamed rice. The crusty skin gives way to luscious flesh whose delicate taste lends a lovely base for the spicy Malaysian curry. As I’ve grown older, my taste buds have also grown weak to spices, but my love for them remains. I would’ve cleaned that plate off—sauce, toppings and all—if I could. (Fair warning, though, not to drink Homemade Ginger Beer with this dish. As much as I love how bright and refreshing it is, the ginger only served to amplify the heat and make it linger, which crippled me for a moment before I once again became unable to resist the captivating curry call.)
We were told to consume Beef Bo Ssam as one would samgyupsal: That is, take a lettuce leaf, stack with a slice of tantalizing beef rib eye, sauces and garlic fried rice. The casualness of it all makes eating such a fancy-looking dish even more thrilling. While the meat is tender and a lovely medium rare, the sauces are pure standouts, and the combination is a carnival of Asian flavors.
Sweet Boy is a light dessert—an airy chocolate sponge cake with chocolate mousse, pandan curd and desiccated coconut—that tastes both familiar and new.
Himself a lover of Asian cuisine (he craves it when he’s away), Walsh’s spin on these good old staples reveals his curiosity and inventiveness. Having lived in the continent for the past 12 years, he has taken much inspiration from his travels all over Asia. In fact, he said he’s been learning a lot about the Filipino palate, and the glorious Sticky Pork Adobo Bao in the limited menu—for now, a total of only 10 dishes (including dessert) and a reasonable selection of drinks (including wines, cocktails, mocktails and lattes)—represents the Philippines: a beautiful pork adobo pork chop served with fried mantou, chicken liver parfait and garlic chicharon crumbs.
While Butcher Boy is currently open just for dinner, Walsh said it will soon expand its service as he looks into adding breakfast fare like Bacon and Eggs Bao or Sausage McMuffin Bao and Bao Bowls for lunch for rice-loving Filipinos.
Butcher Boy is at 106 HV Dela Costa, Soliman, Salcedo Village, Makati City. Follow @butcherboyph on Instagram.
