Parisian café charm in Cebu
Layers of delicate ham are nestled between fine slices of grilled pain de mie, the soft and sweet French white loaf. The top slice is generously buttered and adorned with a rich béchamel sauce. As if that weren’t enough, melted Gruyère and Emmental cheeses, infused with mustard and more béchamel sauce, ooze seductively from between the layers, the crusts having been removed.
French Baker’s Salon de Thé’s croque monsieur promises to transport diners to Parisian bistros, all within the elegant confines of the mall.
“The secrets lie in the lushness of the béchamel sauce and the crunchiness of the toasted pain de mie,” says French Baker owner Johnlu Koa.
French Baker is reviving its Salon de Thé, a Parisian-inspired tea room, as part of its 35th-anniversary expansion. One of its highlights is the unique selection of European teas and gourmet coffees.
A decade ago, the first Salon de Thé opened at SM Megamall, capturing the Parisian ambiance with curlicued ironwork, classic round-backed chairs, pendant lights, and a dazzling display of European pastries. However, with the mall undergoing phased renovations next year, the operations of the original Salon de Thé will be affected.
Expanding to other city malls presents challenges due to limited space. Hence, French Baker is focusing its Salon de Thé expansion on emerging provincial malls.
When the SM Group rebranded and redeveloped an old retail building in Mandaue City, Cebu into the high-end SM J Mall, French Baker saw an opportunity. “The atrium was a large open space, like a living room, but it was empty,” recalls Koa. He proposed a refreshed Salon de Thé, drawing inspiration from his recent travels to Paris. The new space features brighter colors, lush plants, and a modern classic aesthetic.
Inviting
Despite lacking traditional walls and a ceiling, the dining outlet feels inviting with plush powder blue couches and silver-leafed chairs. The floor had been excavated to accommodate drainage and electrical wiring. Since the menu focuses on sandwiches, beverages, and pastas, a full kitchen and exhaust system were unnecessary.
“This presented an opportunity to showcase our pastries and toasted sandwiches, such as the croque madame,” says Koa.
The menu also includes pizzas, delicate buttercream cakes, and macarons. A new addition is the tea tower laden with scones, mousses, mini pies, pastries, and chocolates. The tea room also allows for the preparation of salads and other quick dishes thanks to a kitchenette equipped with a chiller, sink, and automatic dishwasher.
The tea selection boasts a wider range of cold teas, including fruit infusions and fruit-infused white and black teas sourced from Europe. The menu highlights German tea brand Ronnefeldt and Rooibos, the caffeine-free herbal tea from South Africa.
“Decaffeinated beverages are trending,” observes Koa, adding that the tea salon uses high-quality beans. He likewise favors an Italian brand, Piacetto, known for its rich and mellow decaf coffee.
“We require a separate grinder for decaffeinated beans to maintain their distinct flavor,” he says. Two other grinders are dedicated to espresso and iced Americano, respectively, using beans with lower acidity that complement milk or cream for the latter.
“We strive to emulate the standards of a professional coffee shop in Italy,” adds Koa.
Next year, Koa plans to introduce crepes to the menu, including buckwheat galettes as a gluten-free option. “Buckwheat has an earthy, nutty flavor that pairs beautifully with cheese and eggs,” he explains.
Salon de Thé’s Cebu clientele is sophisticated and stylish, appreciating the European tea room ambiance complete with patterned cups and saucers adorned with gold rims. “It’s elegant yet affordable,” Koa notes. “Instead of waiters taking orders, guests simply point to their selections, which are then quickly prepared and served.”
This streamlined approach has proven successful, with Salon de Thé often fully booked on weekends as diners bring their families and friends.
Koa believes that for too long, malls have prioritized international brands. By consistently presenting his ideas to mall management, he has demonstrated the value of supporting local brands.
