This Indonesian couple began making cheese to heal their child

Hello from mesmerizing Indonesia. Who would have thought I’d discover some of the finest cheeses at the end of a long, narrow, and winding road in Yogyakarta? Well, when you are in the company of Indonesia’s culinary demigod chef William Wongso, expect the unexpected. This is what I’ve learned in the past few days that I have been here.

Chef Om (“om” is uncle in Indonesian), as I fondly call him, has been taking me around Indonesia to curate the next Kitchens of the World culinary tour in June.

We met with one of Southeast Asia’s best cheesemakers. I was thrilled! It was something so unexpected.

We traveled quite a bit to get to Mazaraat Artisan Cheese, where we were warmly welcomed by Jamie and Nieta Najmi. The gracious couple led us inside their home, where an assemblage of cheeses atop a massive cheeseboard awaited us.

Jamie and Nieta Najimi —CONTRIBUTED PHOTOS

As we nibbled on the curated selection of cheeses, I learned that Jamie was an IT professional who loved cheese, while his wife Nieta worked in the tourism industry and had great disdain for all forms of dairy. “I was forced to drink milk. That’s why I disliked it,” Nieta said.

He became a professional cheesemaker and she an affineur, years after they discovered that their daughter Khyya had two holes in her heart. An affineur is someone trained to care for ripening cheeses.

The doctor gave the couple the option of letting Khyrra undergo surgery, or to first try other forms of natural healing—starting with feeding her right. Fermented food and probiotics were on her must-eat list.

The doctor advised the Najmis to prepare themselves for the inevitable surgery of their daughter when she was a bit older and her heart a little stronger.

The author, Nieta, Jamie, and Chef William Wongso

Natural healing

It was for Khyrra that Jamie first made cheeses.

Over time, the natural healing methods and the food she consumed miraculously healed her completely. The holes in Khyrra’s heart closed, with no need for surgery.

Through friends and acquaintances, word about Jamie and Nieta’s cheeses spread. They eventually sold their creations at a specialty market.

Their cheese was first hailed when a prominent buyer who was highly sensitive to unnatural food had no reaction to their products, particularly the halloumi.

Then Chef Om visited the market. Word spread that he had spent time at the Najmis’ stall, and the who’s who of food flew to Yogyakarta to see this new sensation that had caught the guru’s attention.

Jamie took his hobby to a new level by studying the art of cheesemaking first in France, then New Zealand.

Today, Mazaraat makes cheese with utmost respect for old-world natural cheesemaking traditions and time-honored methods.

“What sets our cheeses apart from others is the love and care with which we handcraft every batch of cheese,” said Jimmy.

Nieta was quick to chime in, “It’s true that our cheeses are my babies.” Rightfully so, for as an affineur, she takes care of her cheeses to maturity.

To date, Mazaraat supplies Indonesia’s top chefs, restaurants, and resorts with mozzarella, feta, gouda. They even supply butter, ghee, and of course their signature specialty cheeses.

Jamie and Nieta work hand in hand with chefs to formulate the cheese they desire.

Heartwarming

It was heartwarming to know that some of their most delectable varieties are named after their four children: Khayya replicates one of the most famous goat cheeses, Crottin de Chavignol. Young, it has a subtle nutty flavor. As it ripens, it becomes slightly crumbly.

My personal favorite is the mature Athan, an ultra creamy Camembert with a bloomy rind and a creamy, subtle, earthy flavor. It has a perfect mouthfeel and a clean finish. It is a cheese masterpiece, in my opinion. Simply sublime.

Ibra is semi-hard French Fourme d’Ambert blue cheese style. Ibra is more supple and dense than most blues. Slightly tangy, it has a savory flavor, with blue veins coming from Penicillium roqueforti.

Alpine is a semi-hard cheese with a smooth and supple texture, nutty, buttery, fruity, and spicy.

Jamie adds on to his roster of cheeses based on feel. He finds joy in incorporating Indonesian ingredients into his innovations. He takes pride in being his own person as a cheesemaker, and surely he must, for in each and every one of their creations, the Najmis have managed to bring out characteristics that are unique to their Mazaraat brand.

Take for instance their perfectly salted halloumi, which when heated boasts of a distinct chewiness. It also caramelizes beautifully. What I savored during my visit was a halloumi by all means, but so much better in ways only my palate can describe.