Mindanao cuisine takes center stage in collab dinners
Ayà’s Thirdy Dolatre has always seen much promise in the capabilities of Davao-born, New Zealand-based Carlo Buenaventura, his good friend and former classmate.
“He and I go way back to our culinary school days, where he already stood out as a creative student in the kitchen,” he says. “I’ve followed his journey to Auckland, and it’s incredibly inspiring to see him champion Filipino cuisine on an international stage. His work at Bar Magda deeply resonates with Ayà’s philosophy—both feature an extensive wine list and a beverage program that proudly celebrate Filipino culture.”
“What stands out about Bar Magda’s food is how Carlo uses local Aotearoa ingredients while staying true to his southern Filipino roots,” says Kevin Navoa, chef and partner at Ayà. “It beautifully reflects an immigrant’s journey, showcasing his Mindanaoan heritage through creative and heartfelt cooking.”
Flair, appreciation
The similarities between their restaurants are apparent and undeniable, and so when the three had the chance to work and cook together, not as novices but this time as experienced chefs, they seized the chance and composed an inspired multi-course meal that truly proved the breadth of their flair, whimsy, and deep appreciation for local cuisine.
Held at Ayà’s dining room at the Balmori Suites over two fully booked nights (Jan. 9 and Jan. 10), their collaboration wasn’t Buenaventura’s first. He already had done some dating as far back as 2016 when he was still doing pop-ups. But he admits that the one he recently did with Ayà was special. “It’s my first dinner event in the Philippines. And this was my biggest Filipino dining crowd as well. I’m still processing my emotions. I am really overwhelmed,” he says.
When composing the menu, both Dolatre and Navoa, along with the rest of the team, worked hard to ensure Carlo’s philosophy seamlessly melded with Ayà’s style. “We positioned him as the lead, supporting him with components that complemented his cooking approach while staying true to what we do best,” says Thirdy.
The result was 15 dishes that challenged the way diners see traditional regional Filipino cuisine. There was an adobong pâté spread on kamote brioche with smoked cherries and black grapes; a “cornsilog” tart with burong sinigang; fried bonete accessorized with cheese pimiento and parmesan custard; an Agusan eel satti with pickled roselle; and a Siyagul pastel made of tuna.
Among the cold dishes, the sinuglaw was Carlo’s favorite. “Because it’s a Dabawenyo specialty and it always holds a special place in my heart. I was hesitant to include the macapuno because I wasn’t sure if the local Filipino audience would buy into the idea but I’m glad I did. The dish represents how we want to showcase contemporary Filipino flavors, using unusual combinations to showcase how versatile our products are.”
Also included in the ensemble were carrots inasal with beetroot atsara, tortang talong with sambal belacan, market fish en papillote with Alavar sauce, and two of Dolatre’s favorites—lamb ribs pyanggang and nasi sinigapuna with tobiko and betel leaves.
Custom drinks
To make the dinners a full experience, Buenaventura brought beverages from New Zealand, created especially for Bar Magda in collaboration with Brood Fermentation. Erin Ganuelas-Recto, sommelier and partner at Ayà, had a fun time pairing them with the food. “The tasting notes were so distinctly Kiwi, yet they pair perfectly with Filipino food, showcasing how multifaceted and flavorful our cuisine is.”
The Bar Magda collaboration was part of the Inayà Series, an ongoing string of events that allow Hapag and Aya to work with a pool of talents in a relaxed and playful setting. And it’s not limited to chefs alone. Their second in the succession featured Jose Solon Perfecto, a ceramicist from La Union who specializes in beverage wares.
This particular collaboration between Bar Magda and Ayà was an exciting chance to highlight a Filipino chef from the diaspora and celebrate his unique perspective on New Wave Filipino cuisine. “It was a creative and vibrant exchange—undeniably fun and deeply grounded in our shared cultural roots,” says Dolatre.
