Marbling means everything: The wonderful world of wagyu
Even when the restaurant was still being constructed, one look at the sign announcing its arrival was enough for me to know that Steak & Frice was going to be my kind of place. I love steak, I love fries, I love rice—how can I not love it?
And when I found out it was Amado Forés who was behind it, I got even more excited. AF Hospitality founder Forés, named Restaurateur of the Year last year by both Esquire Philippines and the Italian Chamber of Commerce in the Philippines, is also the brains behind A Mano, which has been raking in accolades, including being no. 7 in the 50 Top Pizzas Asia-Pacific list.
I made a reservation for me and my friends soon after Steak & Frice opened. Back then, Steak & Frice had three steak options under The Main Event section of the menu: US Rib-eye (Entrecôte), S&F Striploin, and Certified Angus Beef Tenderloin, all served with S&F French Fries and S&F Rice and one refill of the fries and rice. I’m a rib-eye girl through and through, so you know which one I ordered.
I loved it—the food, the service, the ambience, the experience. The steak was tender, well-seasoned, and perfectly cooked, the steak rice delicious and the fries so addicting. I couldn’t wait to go back.
My most recent visit was for a mouthwatering reason: Forés has expanded Steak & Frice’s menu by adding prime wagyu cuts from around the world. The three new offerings are American Wagyu Ribeye from Snake River Farms, the pioneers of American wagyu; Japanese Ōmi Wagyu Striploin, top-grade A5 wagyu with superior marbling; and Australian Mayura Wagyu Tenderloin, from cattle with a unique diet of chocolate and grains.
Best options
“We wanted to give our guests the best options,” Forés told Lifestyle.
Now I know I said I’ve always been a rib-eye girl, but the marbling on the Ōmi Wagyu got me when they brought out all three steaks on a silver platter so I could choose. I decided to go for the A5 striploin—cooked medium. Forés said, “It’s the highest grade of marbling in Japanese beef. We went with striploin so it’s rich but not overwhelming.”
His pick? The American Wagyu. “It’s the best of both worlds: the beefiness of American beef with the fattiness of Japanese Wagyu. Rib-eye was the obvious choice—it’s the best cut for it.”
The Australian Wagyu is interesting, too. “It’s a unique Wagyu fed Cadbury chocolates and gummy bears. Tenderloin lets you really taste the flavor and texture,” he said.
But you don’t go to Steak & Frice just for the steak. That would be a disservice to the many other delicious things on their menu.
We munched on S&F BBQ Beef Tallow Popcorn, a sweet and salty treat that I can see myself getting addicted to. I would buy buckets of this if they sold it and eat it while binge-watching my favorite shows. I see myself doing the same with the Steak Chicharon, sinful little bites of fried steak fat.
We had the Bacon Steak Caesar Salad, which is served with a beautiful piece of pork cut and added to the greens right at your table. The Onion Flower & Dad’s Basketball Sauce is always a hit and an undeniable crowd favorite—practically every table had it.
I love the Potato Soufflé, crispy, airy pockets that you dip in sour cream and chives (“Please stop asking us how it’s made. It’s magic,” Steak & Frice had posted on Instagram. But really, how is it made?). I cannot go to Steak & Frice without eating it.
Favorite menu items
Forés has his own favorite menu items. “After more than a year, I’m still really proud of our Cheese Gougères made with cheese pimiento—a touch of Filipino nostalgia—and our Ratatouille that looks exactly like the one in the movie.”
“The biggest surprise? Our pastas do really well, too!” he added.
Also available are Truffle Cream & Corn Mafaldine, Fusilli Mac & Cheese, Aglio Olio & Scampi, Spicy Spaghetti & Meatballs, Pink Sauce Pappardelle with Bacon, and French Ravioli & Balsamic Brown Butter. We had the ravioli and it was lovely.
It was time for the steak. The Japanese Ōmi Wagyu Striploin arrived on a platter with French fries and rice, like all steaks at Steak & Frice do. It was a beauty. So rich, so flavorful, seasoned so well, and again, cooked perfectly. One bite and you’ll know that it’s a topnotch steak.
If you want to make your meal even more indulgent, add foie gras or lobster tail to your steak order.
Steak & Rice has a selection of sauces to choose from. You can even order a sampler of all of them—Peppercorn, Béarnaise, Chimichurri, S&F Steak Sauce, Mushroom Gravy, and Romesco. While the sauces are all good and go well with the steaks, you can also enjoy your Steak & Frice steak without them—that’s how flavorful they are.
One thing you shouldn’t skip, though, are the steak rice and fries. As Forés said, “No one should miss a refill of fries or rice—if they’ve finished their plate, make sure to get more!”
Other steak sides are available too, including mashed potatoes, Korean creamed corn, truffle creamed spinach, grilled asparagus and cured egg yolks, sautéed garlic mushrooms, and house salad. Truffle mushroom or seafood rice is also offered.
If you’re dining with people who aren’t red meat lovers, no worries, they can go for the Chicken Confit, Grilled Salmon, or Cauliflower “Steak.”
You will be stuffed from the steak (and everything else) but there’s always room for dessert. The Brûléed Cheesecake is popular, said Forés. I love the Vanilla & Strawberry Millefeuille. But this time, we went for one of the crepes—Banana Nutella. It was such a satisfying way to end what had been a perfect meal.
I love Steak & Frice not just for the food, but also the great service and the vibe. It’s classy and chill, warm and welcoming. That night, there was a young couple at the table to our right and a big, multi-generational family to our left—testament to its wide appeal.
Forés and his Steak & Frice team are cooking up more deliciousness. He told Lifestyle, “Expect more new dishes—and possibly some exciting collaborations, too.”
Steak & Frice is located at the ground floor of Central Square Mall in BGC, Taguig City. Visit www.afhospitality.com or SevenRooms.
