Moryon, Motoring and Much More
The Holy Week and its age-old Moryonan (or Moriones) ritual may be over, but Marinduque still beckons tourists minus the madding crowd which came in throngs over the weekend.
This idyllic island is a paradise in a nutshell away from Luzon’s grid of road trippers, and the post-Lenten trip means more convenient mobility and overall experience.
The heart-shaped province can be reached through a three-hour ferry ride from Dalahican port in Lucena City, to Balanacan, in Mogpog, where the short but sweet motoring adventure begins.
The influx of motorcyclists in recent months has prompted local tourism authorities to literally ride the bandwagon and mint “PusoMoto” as a tourism brand upon the prodding of Marinduque congressman Lord Allan Jay Velasco, himself a motorsports buff.
Dubbed the “Heart of the Island Marinduque Circuit Motoring Adventure,” it took 11 rider groups around 140 km of scenic roads to celebrate the province’s 105th Reestablishment Anniversary.
For true-blue road warriors, any time is ideal to ride around the heart of the archipelago, or even motocamping or outlanding on four wheels. Below is a basic itinerary to marvel at the island’s wonder.
Pit stop 1: Mogpog. This gateway town is home to the Luzon Datum of 1911 which is the geodetic center of the archipelago based on an American-era pre-satellite survey. This stone marker on a mountaintop park has earned Marinduque the bragging right of being the “Heart of the Philippines” where all motoring journeys should originate or at least pass through.
The birthplace of the “moryonan” tradition, seeks out artisans Buddy Liwanagan and Gilbert Monsanto and be amazed at how they masterfully carve the iconic moryon masks from santol wood.
Pit stop 2: Boac. A 15-minute ride takes you to this hub of commerce, tourism, recreation, heritage, and provincial government. This is also an ideal home base for overnight stays, most notably Balar Hotel and Spa which has spacious parking grounds and an adjacent restaurant cluster.
Travel back in time at the town center dotted by well-preserved antiquarian houses which have been repurposed as commercial establishments, and bite into the local heirloom dishes at Casa de Don Emilio or Boac Hotel’s Café Ma Mita.
Stroll around the Boac plaza, the hilltop 19th-century Immaculate Conception Cathedral, and the National Museum, a repository of oceanography, archaeology and the Moryonan tradition.
Swing by the postcard-perfect circa 1920s Graeco-Roman-style provincial capitol complex and the Butterfly Farm which has earned the province the moniker of being the country’s “butterfly capital.” Being the capital town, it is the center of the Moryonan where Roman-inspired soldiers (moryons) roamed the streets to recreate the Holy Week rituals.
Pit stop 3: Gasan. The site of the inactive domestic airport, it also has the best spot for watching the sunset and sleepy shores at the St. Joseph Church view deck.
It is the jump-off point to Tres Reyes, one of the province’s island-hopping getaways, and to Pinamalayan, Oriental Mindoro, whose inhabitants brought the Moryonan tradition.
Pit stop 4: Buenavista. Literally meaning good view, this town is halfway around the loop and you can hang around for a meal stop and a rejuvenating dip at the Molbog Sulfur Spring.
Pit stop 5: Torrijos. Situated on the eastern coast, it takes pride in Poctoy White Beach which is arguably the best in the mainland for beach bumming and kayaking. Scuba divers can plunge into the deep and explore the underwater moryon gallery and the area’s rich marine biodiversity.
At the bottom of the heart-shaped island is Dampulan Seawall, a favorite of motorcycle riders, bikers and promenaders for its mesmerizing ocean view and slow pace of living.
Further inland to the north is the Battle of Pulang Lupa Shrine which memorializes the victory of local freedom fighters during the Philippine-American War in September 1900.
Pit stop 6: Sta. Cruz. The proverbial “save the best for the last,” this quiet town on the eastern edge boasts of the most sought-after beaches and islands—Maniwaya, Santa Cruz, Bathala, Mompong, and the drone-worthy Palad Sandbar.
But before hitting the beach, shoot the obligatory snapshot at the Moryon giant statue at the public plaza.
From here, complete the PusoMoto loop and head for Balanacan port on the way back to Lucena City.
This town is also a backdoor for outrigger boat passengers from towns along Quezon’s Bondoc Peninsula.
All told, a ride around the “Heart of the Philippines” is a heart-pounding and heartwarming journey which will surely make your heart skip a bit.
