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Tenniscore, rewritten: How to make the pleated skirt feel fresh
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Tenniscore, rewritten: How to make the pleated skirt feel fresh

Wimbledon may be over, but the tennis skirt is far from retired. A staple of sporty-prep wardrobes for decades, this pleated mini has returned to fashion’s front row with far less to do with matches and more to do with mood. While early versions leaned literal with polo shirts and varsity sweaters, today’s tenniscore has evolved. It’s sleeker. Smarter. A little subversive.

The new way to wear a tennis skirt isn’t about playing the part. It’s about rewriting it entirely. Whether you’re going for polished, playful, or minimalist, here are foolproof ways to style the tennis skirt—no athletic agenda required.

Skip the polo and reach for something sharper

To take the tennis skirt out of the country club, start by swapping its most obvious companion. Instead of a collared polo or sweater set, opt for tailoring that adds structure and contrast. A crisp white button-down, left half-tucked for a touch of ease, reframes the look. A silk blouse introduces texture and fluidity, while a sculptural cropped top in a technical fabric adds just the right dose of edge. Think of the skirt not as a uniform, but as a base for contrast and play.

US actress Zendaya poses during a photocall for the release of the movie ‘Challengers’ directed by Luca Guadagnino on April 8, 2024 in Rome. (Photo by Tiziana FABI / AFP)

Lean into tonal dressing to streamline the silhouette

When in doubt, go tonal. A coordinated palette always feels intentional. Instead of sticking to all white, consider building your outfit around soft neutrals like oat, stone, or ivory. For a bolder take, match your skirt to unexpected hues. Keep silhouettes modern with sleeveless knits, cropped vests, or tucked-in jersey tops. This creates a clean, elongated shape that makes the tennis skirt feel more refined than sporty.

Mix in streetwear staples to subvert the prep

Balance the preppy silhouette with pieces that disrupt the expected. A vintage band tee tucked into the waistband adds personality and grit. An oversized hoodie draped off one shoulder, or a nylon bomber jacket layered on top, adds volume and edge. Footwear should echo the attitude—chunky sneakers, old-school trainers, or even scuffed ballet flats all work. The idea is to introduce tension, creating a look that’s part feminine, part downtown.

Hailey Bieber. Photo from @haileybieber/Instagram

Choose shoes that surprise

Sneakers are the obvious choice, but not the only one. Styling your tennis skirt with unexpected shoes can completely shift the mood. Ballet flats give it a nostalgic, girlhood charm. Loafers make it smart. Knee-high boots, especially in leather, bring a confident edge. Even a subtle kitten heel can elevate the skirt from daytime casual to evening appropriate. The key is to let the shoes lead the styling direction.

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Edit your accessories with intention

Accessories have the power to signal whether your look feels sporty, fashion-forward, or somewhere in between. Instead of a visor or cap, choose sculptural earrings, a clean shoulder bag, or minimalist sunglasses. Hair, too, can steer the outfit. A slicked-back bun feels polished and modern. Loose waves or a center-parted ponytail add a softer, more romantic finish. Think less “on theme,” more editorial styling.

Olivia Rodrigo plays up her own tour sweater in a white tennis skirt. Photo from @oliviarodrigo/Instagram

Experiment with color, texture, and unexpected fabrics

While the traditional tennis skirt was white for both practicality and uniformity, modern versions invite experimentation. Try a pleated mini in cream leather, structured denim, or crisp poplin. Pastels bring softness, while saturated colors like red or teal add energy. It’s a chance to break the mold and make the skirt entirely your own.

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