Tycoon’s son wants to get you hooked on sherry
A comforting bowl of bone marrow soup or crispy pork knuckles with beer in front of Taal’s iconic volcano would be a compelling reason to drive south. But would you go out of Metro Manila for sherry wine paired with tapas (small plates), pintxos (savory appetizers) and paella?
An inveterate traveler, Dr. Andrew Tan, chair of the conglomerate Alliance Global Group Inc. (AGI)., is seeking to cultivate Filipinos’ taste for sherry. Commonly known as fortified wine, sherry has evolved into an alcoholic drink of depth and nuance as a result of meticulous farming of palomino, its main grape, elaborate blending in the cellar and the aging process.
One type of sherry is dependent on oxidization or how exposure to air creates a richer profile. The other type is shielded by yeast to prevent the wine from oxidation and to maintain its bready flavors.
Thematic destination
Between the border of Alfonso, Cavite, and Laurel, Batangas, lies Twin Lakes township with a chateau-like hotel of the same name, a vineyard and a hillside view of Taal Volcano and the forests. At the hotel, the sherry-centric Twin Lakes Wine Gallery, a brainchild of Dr. Tan, is a thematic destination, initially aimed at aficionados of wine, Brandy de Jerez (Spanish brandy) and Scotch whisky.
The taipan’s son, Kendrick Tan, executive director and corporate secretary of Emperador Distillers Inc. (EDI), says Wine Gallery provides an opportunity for whisky and brandy drinkers “to know, understand and love sherry.” “It’s of the bigger plan to encourage people to widen their tasting palettes and to appreciate what they are drinking,” says the younger Tan. “When I understood sherry, it helped me to better appreciate whiskies and brandies.”
In the long term, the Wine Gallery aims to present its extensive portfolio of sherry brands, born out of EDI’s acquisitions: Bodegas Fundador was one of Spain’s oldest wineries and Bodegas Garvey was at one time the largest wine storehouse in Jerez de la Frontera, a city in southern Spain famous for sherry production.
For its initial offering, the Wine Gallery highlights Harveys, winner of the Best Fortified Wine Producer in the World in 2017 and winner of The Best Wine in the World in the International Wine Challenge 2016.
Small plates
Kendrick notes that different styles of sherry, from palest to darkest, are meant to be paired with certain foods.
“I encourage our chefs and their teams to use their creativity. I offered some suggestions based on the standard food pairings,” he says.
Hence, the Wine Gallery menu recommends some of these combinations.
Fino is dry, light-colored wine which goes and with boquerones (anchovy and sun-dried tomatoes), mussels, olives and asparagus. “It’s lighter bodied, and possesses minerality and fruitiness,” he says.
Amontillado, a richer and nuttier sherry, and Harveys Medium Dry are partnered with pulpo a la gallega (boiled octopus), chorizo on charred baguette and roast pepper pasta and arroz a la valenciana (saffron rice with meat).
Palo Cortado, lightweight and rounder in flavor, complements soups, roasted white meats, vegetables and curries.
Oloroso, darker in color, sweet and less dry, goes with stews with red meat, grilled beef tenderloin, grilled bone-in rib eye steak with grilled grapes and tomato salad and chorizo de Bilbao.
“It’s my favorite, as it goes with steaks,” says Kendrick.
Pedro Ximenez, or PX, is a white grape variety and also the sweetest among the wines. “Pour it over cake and ice cream as the Spaniards do,” says Kendrick. “It also goes with hard and sharp cheeses and goat cheese.”
The most well-known, Harveys Bristol Cream, is not to be taken literally. It has no cream but gives off a velvety texture. A combination of the light Fino, the aged Amontillado, the aromatic Oloroso and the silky Pedro Ximenez, Harveys Bristol Cream goes with all kinds of desserts and chocolates.
Total experience
Kendrick is looking beyond the sherry and Spanish food combination at the Wine Gallery. He notes that sherry is more versatile than wine as it complements a wide range of cuisines. The white wine varieties of sherry can go over fat and umami, which are typical of Filipino food.
“Although Wine Gallery is about Spanish food, we can show the true power of sherry with other cuisines. It’s daring if we can pair sherry with Pinoy food,” he says.
In the end, the Wine Gallery isn’t just a specialty bar or restaurant. The scion says it’s a total experience that allures the senses. Who would ever think of designing a restaurant bar with an industrial design style—wall finishes simulating raw concrete, metallic touches, leather furniture, exposed beams and bulbs—in Batangas? The dining experience is heightened by the nippy weather and the unobstructed nature views.
The younger Tan’s knowledge of wines and spirits was developed from his travels and meetings with EDI’s international partners. Since Emperador carried Fundador, the world’s largest-selling brandy, he first came across sherry in Jerez in 2009.
“We were developing foreign brands with our partners in Spain. I tried sherry with jamon, tapas and meals. I had it at least in two meals a day for two weeks. I’ve been hooked,” he says.
