3 new restos to try
We are just in the second month of 2025, and the restaurant scene is already brimming with excitement and vitality, thanks to the arrival of new players in the arena, all from seasoned brands that have already proven their capacities, given their years in the business.
Among the most anticipated restaurants is Celera by chefs Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar.
“Celera at the very start was intended to exist to allow us to have creative freedom,” says Santos. “At first, I was considering something to further my Southeast Asian background and connect it to our Filipino roots, but I found that limiting.”
Instead of outlining their cuisine based on existing cubbyholes, they just let their food speak for itself. The creative process started by studying the capabilities of each member of the kitchen team, since it is a collective effort after all. From there, they focused on the ingredients they could get their hands on.
“There was a night when we obsessed about beetroot, three long days married into one. Then another time when Neesha, our pastry chef, brought in kiniing (cured pork) from her hometown in Baguio, and I thought this would be perfect for our barbecue—a triumvirate of Baguio with the pine stick and strawberries which was a memory I wanted to recreate spending my childhood summers in Baguio,” says Nicco.
He proceeds to list down how they eventually came up with the menu. “There’s Kevin’s and Jaime’s obsession with fermentation. There were nights when the hibiscus prep was all that Jaime focused on, deseeding the petals. And Erika’s past experiences growing up in Thailand and the technical info she absorbed while working in Le Du, previously.
“Quenee and I navigated with the team, while also being particular in providing protein. The dishes at Celera meet the potential and go beyond what we believe will make our diners happy. It would be a shame to restrict or box it to a linear narrative.”
Celera offers both an a la carte menu and a tasting menu simultaneously, done in the spirit of inclusiveness.
Further solidifying their aim to collaborate, the two also decided to work with some of the country’s best artists—JJ Acuña for interior design, Rita Nazareno and Gabby Lichauco for the Zacharias 1925 lamp and wall installation, Nyla Caras of Noraflora for floral arrangements, and Joey de Castro and Ella Mendoza for ceramics. They have knives by Nacionale Bladeworks, trays with their restaurant name imprint by lamana, and floral centerpieces as gifts from the late Margarita Forés.
Entering their premises will give guests a creative high, one that amazes and inspires rather than overwhelms. This extends to the food where, once again, the formidable tandem takes diners on a ride they’ve never been on. And though foreign, we are confident it will be a satisfying one with Nicco and Quenee at the wheel. (Celera is at 3/F 238 Pablo Ocampo Sr. Ext., Comuna, Makati. Call tel. 0917-5013077.)
Tina Legarda’s new turf
“Mapagkumbaba” is a word Tina Legarda of Bamba Bistro has learned and relearned in every good and really bad decision she has made in her life. After more than a decade of that, she has realized that staying “close to home” lessens the possibility of getting “lost.”
And that’s why she has named her new restaurant Kumba from the Tagalog word to be humble. “The goal is to keep it simple and genuine, and proudly bring out food that’s inspired by the rich culture and flavor I grew up slowly falling in love with.”
It’s a concept that she has long dreamt of turning into reality. But the lack of confidence to pursue and present a cuisine she only loved to eat but was never really professionally trained in made her hold back many times. She only mustered the courage to finally make it real when she gave birth to her daughter Maleia Beatrice three years ago.
“I learned so much about myself again, which I guess gave me that extra push to pour my heart out into something completely new to me and dedicate it to her.”
Kumba is Asian with a touch of Middle Eastern and, personality-wise, is like the cooler best friend of decade-old Bamba. It also has a shorter menu where each dish is in contention with the rest.
There’s the Dan Dan Dumplings, an ode to her dumpling-loving self. It is filled with duck, shiitake mushrooms, and kutsay served with a spicy satay sauce, mandarin ponzu, and pickled radish. Her other favorites are the Kataifi, a mix of goat, feta, and guava that she bakes in kataifi dough and serves with an arugula salad, and the Black Pepper Crab Noodles, dedicated to the time she worked in Singapore. “While everyone was eating chili crab, I was obsessed with this version. I just put that memory in noodle form.”
She has plates with familiar Filipino flavors, too, like the Adobo ala Kumba served with coconut garlic rice; and her take on turon, the Banana Baklava, which has layers of filo dough, sweetened bananas, almonds, and pistachios, made even more decadent with langka sauce. (Kumba is at 92 Aguirre Ave., BF Homes, Parañaque. Call tel. 0996-1062879.)
French flair
Cod brandade, Spanish mackerel rillette, jambon vol au vent, entrecôte and frites, escargot—these are all traditional French dishes that you would typically see and enjoy on a Parisian menu. But one doesn’t need to travel miles to have them, as the guys behind Terrazza Martinez have made them more accessible to Manileños with the opening of Bistrot Le Coucou.
Though located in bustling BGC, the casual restaurant boasts of the charm and appeal many people have come to love in a bistro—small and cozy without being stuffy, inviting and not intimidating, and very neighborhood in feel. This, matched with well-loved dishes, equals culinary romance.
Not to be missed are their modern take on ratatouille, a vegetable stew; duck confit, 30-hour sous vide duck leg with candied orange and roasted red onion; barramundi amandine, pan roasted in brown butter and served with cauliflower purée; and apple tarte tatin with Chantilly cream. They even have fresh fine de Claire spéciale oysters and barnacles flown in fresh from France. Bon appetit, indeed! (Bistrot Le Coucou is located at 2nd floor View Deck One, PSE Tower, 28th St., Bonifacio High Street Mall, Taguig.)
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