A pilgrim’s feast: Tasting the Camino
It took Mikel Arriet a while to open the possibility of doing the Camino de Santiago. Walking the ancient pilgrim route to the tomb of Saint James was nowhere on my bucket list. I have been content to pursue a spiritual journey without the rigors of plodding the stretch through European routes.
However, when the amiable general manager of Anya Resort Tagaytay conceived a gustatory experience drawn from the towns along the way, I was happy to accept his invitation to dinner.
There are different roads to the Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, where the remains of the apostle James are believed to be buried. Pilgrims hike from France, Portugal and different parts of the Iberian peninsula to reach the shrine in northwestern Spain. Mikel, who also wears a chef’s toque, thought about highlighting the culturally rich landscape and history by bringing to the table specialties in the region.
Mikel explained that the dining experience “is not just an indulgence, but a journey to something deeper and more meaningful.”
Beyond Picasso’s ‘Guernica’
Dubbed “El Camino Walk by Samira,” it would be a blend of adventure and camaraderie through a discovery of the people and their traditions along the Camino way. Convivial company around the table ensured that the evening journey charted by Mikel and executive chef Chris Leaning would be enjoyable and congenial.
Our palates were treated to the flavors of the Basque country using fresh and the finest ingredients prepared by the culinary team. The activity in the kitchen was visible through a glass window and a show in itself as the staff deftly prepared and plated the dishes.
We began the tasting with a piquant and savory Gilda & Vermouth, a serving of olives, salted anchovies and piquillo peppers skewered together. “The city in the province of Gipuzkoa has a rich biodiversity, and consequently a wide variety of produce,” Mikel explained as he introduced the starter. He elected to use salinyasi fish, which is identical to the tawilis but more firm and compact.
The second course was Barra de Pintxos, conjured from the traditional markets of Gernika. “Every Monday, they have interesting markets where seasonal vegetables and fruits are available.” He added, “Picasso painted his famous ‘Guernica,’ which is exhibited in Madrid, as a reaction to the bombing of this town by the Nazis in 1937.”
Wait staff set a small dish of the bar chow, which had mushrooms or txampiñones, chaka and pimiento relleno combined together on a bite-size toast. A fruity white wine complemented the serving.
Everyone’s favorite ‘fabada’
Sorropotun, the following dish, put the town of Santillana del Mar on our culinary tour. The traditional seafood dish came as a tuna stew with potatoes, served with a twist of green and red pepper, with onions and chorizos. The Spanish sausages were all made in the Anya kitchen.
The next stop was a crowd favorite. Everyone around the table was looking forward to the Fabada Asturiana, the white bean stew with chorizo, pork and blood sausage. Mikel emphasized that all the ingredients were done in-house, something he had every right to be proud of, gauging from the reaction of the diners.
This was followed by Pargo con Salsa de Erizos, which was snapper in uni sauce. The unique combination harkened to Ribadeo, a municipality in the province of Lugo in Galicia. This fishing village is known for its seafood, a staple, being close to the ocean. There are Michelin-starred restaurants there, attesting to the quality of the food, which was replicated by Samira by Chele with satisfaction that night.
By this time, it seemed challenging to do more than just a bite of the Carillas de Rubia Gallega and Cremoso de Queso Tetilla. The course from Lugo was a beef cheek stew with creamy rice. However, once it touched the mouth, the meat melted in a tender beefy flavor, inviting a repeat, then another and another till capacities were reached.
Mikel said that Lugo remains the only city in the world where a Roman wall completely surrounds the 332-km capital. A Unesco World Heritage Site, this exceptional archeological engineering feat, built in the third century, is still intact, reaching a height of 10 to 15 m and covering a 2,117-m circuit.
Santiago de Compostela was our last stop, the journey rewarded with a slice of Pastelito de Santiago. The almond cake was presented with a stenciled Cross of the Order of Santiago. It was literally a sweet finish to a remarkable meal.
Talk around the table had escalated to plans on doing the Camino de Santiago together next year. The food had inspired an adventure for the body and the soul that began in the outskirts of Manila, in Anya in Tagaytay.
The seven-course degustation menu of El Camino Walk at Samira by Chele Gonzalez will be available until Oct. 31.
