A taste of Spain in the city
Located in the northern part of Spain, Cantabria is known for its prehistoric caves, the most famous of which is Altamira, considered “the Sistine Chapel of prehistoric art.”
There is nothing cave-like at Cantabria, the Spanish F&B outlet at the roof deck of The Westin Manila, with views of the city from its windows. The spacious dining area is softly lit by lamps and sconces. Occupying space on one wall is a stylized map of the coastal area.
Chef Chele Gonzalez, the restaurant’s creative culinary director and consultant, has come up with a tasty selection of tapas and seafood dishes from his hometown. The chef has his hands full overseeing and doing consultancy work for other restaurants within and outside the city, but it is at Cantabria where he gets the chance to share dishes he grew up loving and eating.
He is particularly proud of the grilled turbot, locally known as bilong bilong, that is imported weekly from Spain and is a signature dish at the restaurant. At Cantabria, the turbot used is meatier and much larger. It is perfectly grilled before being served tableside with a fresh green salad, apportioned to guests so they get to savor the fatty and flavorful flesh at once.
Experiences
To aid Gonzalez and to also periodically come up with new items, a new chef de cuisine was introduced recently. Álvaro Romero-abreu Raya grew up in Cadíz and trained and worked in Michelin-starred restaurants. He was part of the R&D team at Mugaritz, the fine dining restaurant in northern Spain considered one of the best in the world, with two Michelin stars to its name. As chef de cuisine, he brings his expertise in traditional Spanish fare and innovation on the classics.
During a recent dinner, Gonzalez and Raya prepared dishes that hint at the direction the restaurant is set to take, starting with a raw oyster topped with a refreshing sour apple foam and lemon-lime sorbet. There was also a staple on the menu, wagyu tartlets, but this time topped with ikura (roe) and truffle egg yolk.
Raya, who initially took up law, had no intention of becoming a chef. He credits his shift to the culinary scene to warm afternoons spent in the kitchen learning from his grandmother and both his parents.
For his part, Gonzalez prepared a stew of baby squid with toothsome bites of potato. He likened it to our squid ink adobo, although his version was elevated with the addition of potatoes and caramelized onions. “It’s a traditional dish in Cantabria, one that all the mothers there make,” he said.
Apart from the grilled turbot, there was also a bone-in veal shank that was served tableside. The fork-tender beef baked in demi-glace was made even more decadent with the bone marrow swirled on top. This was served with mashed potatoes and vegetables.
Both chefs each prepared a dessert. Gonzalez served a traditional buttery cake, Sobao Pasiego, with berries and cheese ice cream, while Raya made a dreamy chocolate soufflé with calabaza-vanilla toffee and pistachio ice cream. Instead of serving it in a tiny ramekin, he cooked it in a soup bowl that was meant for sharing. I could’ve eaten it by myself.
At Cantabria, guests can choose from set menus available for lunch and dinner. Just be sure to save room for that choco soufflé.
“We have a lot of experiences to offer in different ways,” Raya said in a statement. “There’s something for everyone. We’ve created a menu that can make people feel like they’re in Spain. I feel that, too. I feel like I’m home.”
