All that glitters is gold
Led Zeppelin famously sang, “All that glitters is gold” in “Stairway to Heaven,” and that rang true as Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello unveiled the Women’s spring/summer 2027 collection for Paris Fashion Week.
The show was set against the sprawling backdrop of the Trocadéro, the Eiffel Tower peeking out overhead, and the Seine stretching beyond it. And while the setting was grand, the collection itself had plenty of spectacle to match. The effect was utterly magical.
“Gold is today’s black”
Historically, Yves Saint Laurent adored the shade, famously once calling gold “today’s black.” Through his design, the brand is known for livening up eveningwear with the brand’s distinctive glimmering buttons, belts, and chains.
So it was most appropriate for creative director Vaccarello to construct the latest Saint Laurent collection around the shade. The runway dripped with shimmering accessories—from massive, dangling filigree earrings to shoes crafted with metallic chains, wrapped over snake-shaped heels.
Despite being a spring/summer collection, the silhouettes ranged from safari jackets to trench coats. Underneath were flowy blouses paired with wrap skirts—earthy yet still shimmering. There were also structured suits and coats, some edged with fur.
Theatrical pieces and a theatrical ending
Other gold coats later gave way to theatrical black velvet tailored pieces. But all throughout the spectrum of gold were different kinds of gold, from pale hues to burnished textures.
The materials were wide-ranging, too, with many lustrous lamé pieces, organza, lace, and the occasional brocade, jacquard, and, of course, a little flair with gold-leaf-coated latex.
To close the show, Vacarello himself walked the runway, handing a key to a young boy in the audience. The enigmatic gesture has sparked rumors and speculation over whether the spectacular show could also be a hint at the designer’s official Saint Laurent exit.
