Amado Forés redefines Italian culinary excellence in Manila
A decade ago, Amado Forés embarked on his restaurant career in the marketing and digital media department of his mother’s renowned chain, Cibo. Eager to share his bold ideas, he faced a challenge: Cibo had established branding and operational templates. How could a young, ambitious individual persuade his boss, Margarita Forés, to embrace new approaches?
Today, his restaurant, a mano, has been recognized twice as one of the Top 100 pizzerias in the world and this year at 50 Top Pizzas in Asia Pacific. It can even surpass Cibo in sales percentage. With seven successful restaurants in five years (four branches of a mano, two branches of Ramen Ron, and Steak & Frice) under his holding company, AF Hospitality, Amado, 34, has been named Restaurateur of the Year by Esquire Philippines and the Italian Chamber of Commerce.
Even before these accolades, Margarita had been receptive to her son’s advice.
“The restaurateur of this generation is a different breed, thinking differently and pushing the industry forward. It’s more than just the food; it’s about appealing to emotions,” says Edgar Caper, Cibo’s chief operating officer.
Amado’s brand-building strategy focuses on creating memorable dining experiences, inspiring aspiration in customers. The appeal of his food and service encourages diners to try new dishes. Younger patrons, in particular, seek restaurants that align with their values, such as authenticity, sustainability and reputation.
Tasting the Mediterranean
In 2018, Margarita and Amado embarked on a gastronomic journey to Italy. Inspired by their experiences, and with his mother’s support, he opened a mano (“by hand” in Italian) in 2019.
In a WhatsApp message, the media-shy Amado writes that growing up in his mother’s culinary environment cultivated his taste for fine food: “That definitely shaped how I run my restaurants today as I always aim to create with our team what we feel is our ideal or best version of a particular classic.”
Judges of the 100 Top Pizzerias lauded a mano for its authenticity and flavors in 2023. “With this pizza, you can taste the Mediterranean and the fire from the oven, all pizzas are topped with ingredients from the ‘basket’ of the made-in-Italy.” In 2024, they commended, “The pizza closely resembles the Neapolitan style, soft, melting, with high-quality ingredients.” A mano was cited for the balance of toppings on the pizza, the freshness of the pastas, the extensive beverage list, and the speedy delivery service.
Margarita proudly cites that Amado’s Filipino pizza chefs made it possible. His team took classes with a master pizzaiolo in Naples. His continuous learning enables him to adapt to the changing times and improve his team’s skills.
Amado’s success is a combination of many factors. He possesses a keen instinct for quality food and service that appeals to all generations. “As an entrepreneur, he knows how to choose the right people. When he sees a good person, he’s going to try to convince that person to join the organization. He’s got good chefs, service people, and suppliers. That’s the strength of AF Hospitality,” says Caper, adding that like his mother, Amado has impeccable taste in design.
Family ties
Likewise, he thrives in a collaborative atmosphere where AF Hospitality, Margarita’s restaurants and catering service, and Mamou restaurants, owned by his aunt, Malou Forés, and his uncle Jorge or Oye, share ideas.
Caper adds that Amado credits Mamou’s steaks for inspiring him to open Steak & Frice (a portmanteau of fries and rice) in BGC. Jorge Araneta Forés is Cibo’s managing director and chief financial officer. “Oye navigated the business to where we are now. Amado mentions him in interviews,” says Caper.
Their collaboration has redefined the Philippine dining scene, presenting the enduring power of family and culinary passion.
“Amado will have an idea which he will align with his mom. She always gives him advice and he talks to the chef. Like his mom, he is very discerning with suppliers,” says Caper.
“He conceptualizes and runs it by me and I correct. The ideas are mostly his,” says Margarita. Both Cibo and a mano became ambassadors of Italian cuisine and ingredients.
Poker-faced
Caper describes Amado as the “Big Idea Guy.” He consults Amado about certain dishes, and his suggestions are taken up with Cibo executive chef Jorge Mendez. “In board meetings, he tosses ideas for Cibo. What’s good is that he always shares his best practices with us and vice-versa.”
A few months ago, the younger Forés lit a fire under his mother and the Cibo team to aim for the 50 Best Artisan Pizza Chains in the World by 50 Top Pizzas. Although Margarita was gearing for 2025 as her restaurants waited for their new pizza ovens, Cibo was ranked 44th this year. “We became the first chain in the Philippines to get the award. We weren’t rooting for it this year because we are in the trial phase,” says Caper.
Albert Sapere, cofounder of the 50 Top Pizzas, was visiting the Philippines to look for a venue for the pizza summit. Margarita and Caper planned to host him at Cibo at the Podium. Amado told Caper to improve the pizza dough and toppings. He also broached the idea of special pizzas in collaboration with master pizzaioli Stefano Canosci and Margarita.
Sapere was poker-faced when he tasted Cibo’s pizza. Thus, it came as a surprise when Margarita received a call from Sapere inviting her to speak at the World Pizza Summit in London and declared that Cibo was on this year’s prestigious list. The commendation stated that Cibo’s partnership with Canosci resulted in a dough that was balanced, light, well-leavened, and perfectly cooked. “Good quality Italian products and a lot of kindness from the staff make the difference,” it noted.
Although Amado is credited for making Cibo remain relevant after 27 years, he reverts to life lessons from his mother. “She always reminded me to never forget where I came from. It helps me to stay focused on what really matters,” he said.
