Chefs look back on 2024
Before totally closing the year to make way for the new one, I asked some of the notable chefs that made 2024 vibrant and exciting to reminisce and pinpoint what they were most thankful for.
From their original Quezon City outpost, modern Filipino restaurant Hapag moved to happening hub Balmori Suites early last year, and along with their much anticipated opening, started operations for lounge concept Aya as well. They also launched a collaboration series, which included the lauded restaurant from Jakarta, August.
By the year’s end, they again became a headline with their Western Visayas menu, the batchoy in particular becoming a hot topic of online conversation. All eyes are on them as they continue to bring local cuisine to new heights.
“Calling 2024 challenging would be an understatement, but I’m deeply grateful for our partners and teams at Hapag and Ayà who made everything possible. Without their hard work and dedication, none of this would have been achievable,” says Thirdy Dolatre.
“This year, we moved Hapag to a bigger location, which came with a larger team and more complex operations. Managing a bigger team is no easy task, but it taught me the importance of trust—believing in their ability to get the job done and grow together as a strong, cohesive unit.
“On a personal note, I also became a father this year, which has been the most rewarding experience of my life. Balancing the demands of running a newly opened restaurant with the responsibilities of raising a newborn has been no small feat. I’m incredibly thankful for my wife, Elisha, who ensures our home and baby are well cared for, especially during the busiest times.”
Change
Coowner and chef Kevin Navoa adds, “One thing I’m most thankful for is change. It’s been tough to move, adjust, adapt, and rethink everything we do and see. I’ve had a lot of ups and downs in the past year, and most of it has been because of change. As we go through change, we’ll always face resistance. Change might not always be welcome, but to me, it’s the only way to grow and improve. So, I’m grateful for resistance too. Without it, I don’t think we’d value change as much.”
Young couple Neil Dy and Amanda Hao are certainly among 2024’s success stories, with their less-than-one-year-old San Juan bar and restaurant Seva being among the busiest in town. A pandemic project that stemmed from selling longganisa pizzas from home, they eventually did private dinners in Quezon City, a handful of pop-ups, followed by their own establishment, which opened at the start of the year.
“We are thankful to have been given the opportunity to open Seva, a space where connections are nurtured and every dish tells a story of authenticity, passion, and selfless service. Most importantly, we are immensely grateful to be able to get to do what we love with the people we love,” says Dy.
Miko Calo’s 2024 was quite eventful. By midyear, she surprised everyone with her resignation from the now-defunct Metronome and though she had more time to relax, she ended up still being busy.
Along with cousin RJ Galang, she opened pop-up steak brand mediumwelldone in The Grid at the Power Plant Mall, did a collaboration in Hong Kong, ran a residency in Shangri-La Makati, and had four-hands dinners with a bunch of chefs including Aaron Isip.
“I am grateful for the community that I have and the friends I have gained in the past few years,” she says. “I was put in a very difficult position early this year and it is the people around me (family, friends, colleagues) who rallied behind and supported me that got me through it. With their encouragement, I was able to give myself grace and gained the confidence to move forward.”
Beautiful souls
Like Calo, Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar also had a news-making year. They left Cafe Aurora, which they helped build from concept to operations, to concentrate on their upcoming restaurant Celera. In the process, they got busy by doing pop-ups for Sambar and dessert brand Baby, as well as a collaboration in Singapore, with Peach Blossoms.
Santos says, “I’m most thankful and grateful to be able to do what I love with the support of the beautiful souls around me.”
JP Anglo’s Kooya closed the year by taking home the recognition as the favorite homegrown restaurant in Dubai from The Fact dining awards. The Negrense chef has been pretty occupied running his Filipino eatery abroad, and his hard work is paying off, as evidenced by the prestigious honor. Before the year folded, he also collaborated with new restaurant Now Now Canteen.
“First of all, I’m thankful for my son. I’m a better person because of him. I want to be a good father. Somehow, I’m a better chef because of that inner happiness. I’m thankful for my wife, for family. I’m thankful for the writers, collaborators, the chefs, everyone who plays a role in globalizing our cuisine. The Hapag boys, Jordy Navarra, Tom Cunanan—all the chefs around the world and in the Philippines who play a part in shaping our cuisine. I’m thankful for that because I believe that we can be up there, we just have to be united.”
