Chele Gonzalez’s greatest role
Chele Gonzalez has his finger in too many pies. And yet, given his busy and packed schedule, he manages not only to be involved, but to also have influence in all of them.
Even before deciding to pack his bags and relocate to the Philippines, he has always been up and running. In fact, that’s the very reason he ended up in the country.
Having tirelessly worked in some of the best restaurants in the world like El Bulli, El Celler de Can Roca, and Mugaritz, the Spanish chef was on the brink of a major burnout. And since Asia has long been his go-to region for vacation, he opted to try his luck and applied for head chef positions in a couple of countries, including Thailand. He eventually bagged a spot in Sofitel Manila. It was a gamble, but nothing he wasn’t ready, able and willing to face since living abroad is something he has quite gotten used to, having stayed in the United States and United Kingdom for studies.
Chele, as many fondly call him, has been in the Philippines for 14 years. “I come from a very small town in Spain where everybody knows each other. Here, when I came, I had to start from zero, work from scratch,” he says. “I have grown as a person. The country has given me so much. And I love the Filipinos for being so warm. It really made me a better version of myself and I am very grateful. It has been a journey but it’s not over yet.”
Many roles
He has taken on more roles apart from being a chef. He is a consultant, sharing his name and expertise with establishments such as Cantabria at The Westin Manila, Samira in Anya Resort Tagaytay, and Enye in Crimson Resort and Spa Mactan; a DJ, reliving a former career by doing gigs in clubs like Nokal; and a restaurateur, operating celebrated places like the sandwich shop Deli by Chele, a Basque cheesecake and dessert brand called Chef Chele’s Kitchen, the multiawarded Gallery by Chele, where he features contemporary terroir cuisine inspired by the Philippines, and his most recent, Asador Alfonso, an impressive roasting house located in Cavite, which he confesses to be both an accident and a dream.
“I really wanted to do a restaurant that challenged me to do the best and finest Spanish cuisine. I left 14 years ago and the food in my home country has evolved a lot, specially the traditional ones. Asador Alfonso is full of possibilities. It’s inspired by my favorite restaurants, the ones I eat at during my summer visits to Spain—Elkan, Etxebarri, many more.”
He adds, “It’s also accidental since I didn’t really see the whole building until it was done, so I had no idea.”
Fatherhood
Of his multiple responsibilities though, his most recent one is admittedly the most fulfilling and rewarding—fatherhood. In 2017, he married Teri Echiverri, whom he met on a blind date arranged by her former colleague at Edsa Shangri-La. Five years later, their love gave birth to the lovely Ainara Teresa—and Chele has never been the same, as the roles of a husband and a father have made him a much better man.
The couple also work as business partners, running Burnt Basque Cheesecake by Chele together since 2020 and candidly confessing that it is in their home kitchen that they dated and made their first baby—their version of the beloved cheesecake. They’ve released many iterations of it, from a limited-edition truffle to a whisky-flavored one for Father’s Day. Their recent release features the Tarta de Queso, which has a secret blend of three cheeses.
“I’ve become more calm and mature. My life is just complete. Before, I was focused more on my work. Now, I just try to enjoy what I do. I try to balance work and family. I’m at that point in my career where I don’t need to prove anything. I have already achieved more than what I have ever dreamed of achieving.”
Even the way he runs his businesses has been altered. “I come from hard and very disciplined kitchen brigades. Seeing how the Filipinos are, I’ve become more mellow. My management style has definitely changed.”
Right after touring us in Asador Alfonso, he proceeded to check on his family before sitting us down and serving an array of roasted items, including a whole sole and succulent lamb ribs.
It’s pretty apparent that, though juggling jobs, he is totally in control.
Follow the author at @fooddudeph in Instagram.
Angelo Comsti writes the Inquirer Lifestyle column Tall Order. He was editor of F&B Report magazine.