Chinese food two ways by acclaimed chefs
Manila was recently graced by two internationally celebrated chefs who are both no strangers to the country. There was May Chow, known by many as the recipient of the Asia’s Best Female Chef Award in 2017, and Singaporean Jereme Leung, who has over nine restaurants across the world, including China Blue by Jereme Leung in Conrad Manila. Both of them present Chinese fare in a different light, so foodies were treated to special culinary feasts.
Little Bao takeover
Pan-fried brisket dumplings, vegetarian Sloppy Chan, poached beef tongue and pickled ginger salad, fish head curry ice cream bao—by simply perusing the menu of Chow’s Hong Kong joint, guests can ascertain a playful spirit and spunk. And it is this same whimsy that’s also splashed on the design of the shop, which, though small, is full of mod-ish character, from the mint green ceiling to the neon-lit baby icon.
It’s very much in sync with the personality of Chow, whose warm smile engages and intrigues. It is this warmth which she brings across Asia, along with her signature dishes. “Food for me is happiness and joy and storytelling,” she says. “After COVID, we really wanted to bring our brand to the people. That’s why we’re doing this,” she says, referring to pop-ups in Singapore, Seoul, Guangzhou, and last week, Manila.
“The hospitality, the warmth, the community, natural exuberance and energy are what I love about Manila,” she adds. “We’re doing Asia but we’re also going to do New York and London. Hopefully, Tokyo, too.”
Wherever she brings her Little Baos (she has two in Hong Kong), Chow thinks about the customers and the locality when presenting her dishes. Here she served Stir Fried Beef Noodles Fries with beansprouts and scallions, and Little Bao Caesar Salad with local cured fish, panko and fermented black beans.
The mains included Iberico pork char siu bao with cucumber leek salad, and the Szechuan mala fried chicken. Dessert was toasted milk ice cream with calamansi caramel and pinipig crumble, which was prepared by chef Pat Go. The event, which was fully booked, took place at Your Local in Makati.
Special set menu
China Blue at Conrad Manila has always been the favorite of many. It requires no special occasion to indulge in its bestsellers, like the chef’s masterful version of the golden roasted duck, its array of dim sum including the taro dumpling with scallop, and the braised baby abalone with crab claw and fried fish maw.
Every year though, the eight-year-old restaurant gives its loyal guests one valid reason to dine and book a table early. It’s when chef Leung comes to visit and lays out a very special set menu.
This year, his anticipated meal runs until Sept. 30 (lunch and dinner) under the 2024 Legendary Chefs Series—The Emperor’s Table, and it is extra special as Leung brought in seven ingredients that are rarely found in the region, deliciously incorporating them in his dishes.
There is an appetizer of succulent shrimp brined in Shaoxing wine and cooked at a controlled temperature of 56 degrees, as well as an avocado and crab meat pastry.
The double-boiled sturgeon tendon with dry sea conch, goji berry and morel mushroom soup is equally warming and comforting, while the wasabi Wagyu beef dredged in pistachio and served with green bamboo shoot is sinfully savory.
Completing the stellar meal are pan-fried black cod with torch ginger flower sauce, braised Yin Yang rice that mixes orzo pasta and Tibet rock grain that came from the Himalayan mountains, and for dessert, coconut mousse with mango puree nestled in a chocolate shell.
Contact China Blue at tel. nos. (+632) 8833-9999 or (+63917) 650-4043. Conrad Manila is located on Seaside Boulevard, Coral Way, Pasay. Follow the author at @fooddudeph on Instagram.
Angelo Comsti writes the Inquirer Lifestyle column Tall Order. He was editor of F&B Report magazine.