Cibo raises the pizza bar with an Italian pizzaiolo
In a bid to secure a spot on the prestigious 50 Top Pizza Asia-Pacific (Apac) 2025 list, homegrown brand Cibo is collaborating with Italian pizzaiolo Stefano Canosci. On Sept. 1, Cibo will introduce a new pizza line that incorporates Canosci’s techniques and features superior toppings.
While Cibo has long been celebrated for its pastas and meat dishes, chef patron Margarita Forés’ son, Amado Forés, encouraged his mother to elevate the restaurant’s pizza offerings. Amado’s restaurant, A Mano, has already achieved significant recognition, ranking No. 12 on the 50 Top Pizza Apac 2024 list.
The top 13 restaurants on the 50 Top Pizza Apac 2024 list are eligible to compete for the top 100 Best Pizzerias in the World awards, which will be held at Teatro Mercadante in Naples on Sept. 10. A Mano itself was ranked 96th on the 100 Best Pizzerias in the World 2023 list.
During the 2023 awards ceremony, Amado befriended Stefano Canosci, whose pizzeria, Chicco, in Tuscany, was ranked 83rd. Canosci has now traveled to the Philippines at the invitation of an Italian friend and the Forés family to share his expertise with the Cibo team.
Cibo introduced its oval pizza line in 2004, following training with the late master pizzaiolo Gaetano Fazio in Ischia, Italy. The Cibo team spent several months perfecting the dough to accommodate the unique cooking conditions in the Philippines. Despite satisfactory sales, Forés felt it was time to revitalize the pizza line after its 27 years of operation.
Canosci shared techniques for crafting a perfectly risen pizza crust, including maintaining optimal temperatures for the kitchen climate and the long fermentation. The bruising or pressing technique enhances the dough’s texture, flavor and aroma, while the baking method yields a stunning leopard-like browning on the pizza crust.
“Stefano’s method makes the dough feel more alive and puffier,” Forés explained. “It’s not heavy on the stomach.”
Pinoy bacon and Sagada orange
Guests at Cibo’s anniversary launch had the opportunity to sample two collaborative pizzas featuring a blend of local and imported ingredients. The first Pizza Ovale Speciale was topped with asparagus, Filipino slab bacon, Sagada orange zest, mozzarella, parmesan and burrata from Latteria Sorrentina, a 200-year-old company renowned for the world’s best cheeses.
The second thin-crust pizza was a Roman-style creation featuring roast pork, chicharron (Filipino pork cracklings), spring onions, mozzarella and chili flakes. These pizzas were complemented by Cibo’s expanded pastry menu.
Canosci expressed his gratitude for the warm hospitality of the Forés family and was impressed by the high standards of the Manila restaurant scene. “It’s important to showcase the Philippine kitchen to the world,” he said. “They are on par with European restaurants.”
He noted that the main difference between the Italian and Philippine restaurant scenes is the prevalence of specialty restaurants in Italy. His Chicco has been featured on the 50 Top Pizza Italia list for five years.
Judges of the 50 Top Pizza Italia commended Chicco for its warm ambiance and contemporary furnishings that contrasted with the ancient walls. The pizza bases were praised for their leavening process, which resulted in a digestible crust. The toppings were certified DOP, ensuring they were grown in Italy and of the highest quality. The restaurant also received positive feedback for its menu and wine and beer list.
Chicco ranked No. 59 on the 50 Top Pizza Italia 2024 list out of 35,000 pizzerias in Italy. However, in 2023, Chicco ranked 40th. The change in ranking could be attributed to his absence from the restaurant due to frequent travels. “It’s your face and your brand,” he said. “Your presence is important.”
Types of pizzas
The pizzaiolo trains other kitchens abroad and serves as a culinary ambassador for Italy and the Vatican. He is also a brand ambassador for Le 5 Stagioni, a premium flour brand.
Canosci’s pizzeria offers various types of dough: Neapolitan pizza, known for its soft texture and distinctive high crust; Romana, with a thin crust and oily edge for a crispier base; Pala Romana, a rectangular pizza with a soft interior and slightly crunchy exterior; calzone, a stuffed pizza pocket; and fried pizzas.
“My favorite pizza is classic—just tomato and basil or marinara with garlic, tomato and oregano, or Pizza Margherita with good mozzarella,” Canosci said.
Canosci is sharing his exacting standards with Cibo’s pizza makers, even if it means changing the dough and sourcing fresh mozzarella locally instead of importing from Italy. He envisions various possibilities for pizza collaborations in the Philippines, such as organizing a pizza degustation, a dinner menu focused on different pizzas, or even a collaborative pizzeria.
The chef brings over 20 years of experience to his role. He began his career as a bartender at Antonello Colonna, the Michelin-starred restaurant named after the renowned chef in Labico, Rome. While other staff members took naps, Canosci remained awake and learned from the restaurant’s baker.
“He taught me the theory and practice of making pizza. Through this collaboration, I gained experience in the bakery department,” he said.
Asked about the secret to becoming a top pizzaiolo, Canosci emphasized humility, discipline, interpersonal skills and continuous learning. “Without these qualities, we cannot achieve excellence,” he said.
