Emilio Mina and the enduring legacy of Caruso
Italian brass trims lend a sleek sophistication to the dado panels, while brass pendant lamps cast a warm, golden hue over the kitchen. Crisp, white Egyptian cotton tablecloths and napkins adorn the tables, and waiters, impeccably dressed in waistcoats and white dinner jackets, glide through the dining room. Soft piano music wafts through the air, creating an atmosphere of refined elegance.
This could be any restaurant in Italy, said the Italian linen manufacturer whose family business dates back to the 16th century. The 22-year-old Caruso in Makati has earned a reputation for authentic Italian cuisine and ambiance.
Early in December, Emilio Mina, the Italian owner of Caruso, celebrated two significant milestones: his 90th birthday and a lifetime achievement award from the Italian Chamber of Commerce of the Philippines.
Caruso has cultivated a loyal following of Filipino and international patrons, willing to indulge in its authentic Italian cuisine, often featuring heirloom recipes from Mina’s mother. The restaurant’s longevity is further evidenced by its dedicated staff, many of whom have been with Caruso for over a decade. Three Filipino chefs, trained by Caruso’s former Italian chef patron and a foreign consultant, have become culinary pioneers in their own right.
Longtime staffers
Mina explains that Caruso’s commitment to quality extends to every ingredient. His staff sources the finest meats, the most prized truffles, and the freshest seafood, including Dover sole and sea bass. The handmade pasta fresca, with its delicate texture, is the ideal partner for the rich sauces and fillings.
Coming from a family of accomplished cooks, Mina cultivated a refined palate. Every dish must pass his rigorous standards. Leo Balanquit and Chay Francisco, Caruso’s longtime managers, note that Mina is just as meticulous about staff presentation and etiquette.
At his age, Mina’s mind is as sharp as a tack. “He’s exacting, but also generous. I’ve learned a lot from him, from fixing small restaurant details to crafting readable sales reports,” says Francisco.
The menu takes the diner on a culinary journey through Italy, reminiscent of Mina’s Sunday family meals. From Piedmont, the vitello tonnato, a recipe from his mother Mariuccia, is lean veal simmered in an olive oil-drenched tuna sauce enhanced with anchovies. His grandmother’s creamy insalata Russa, made with potatoes and vegetables, is elevated with cooked ham.
Fresh pastas
The Venetian region is represented by spinach ravioli, filled with ricotta cheese and spinach and paired with a rich, homemade tomato sauce. A comforting dish, especially during the cooler months, the osso bucco alla Milanese from Milan is a slow-cooked veal shank bathed in a wine-infused sauce. The risotto alla Milanese, made with arborio rice, buttery sauce, and saffron, is the perfect complement.
From Genoa, the simple pasta fresca is transformed by a complex pesto Genovese sauce, made with fresh basil, pine nuts, high-quality olive oil, and aged cheese. The Tuscan influence is epitomized by the bistecca alla Fiorentina, a well-browned but tender steak.
Finely-sliced black truffles are available year-round for that extra touch of luxury. Even the late tycoon Eduardo Cojuangco appreciated the menu, particularly the crepe ai porcini, a simple yet elegant dish of rolled crepes, bechamel sauce, and delicate porcini mushrooms.
Unlike other restaurants, the wood-fired oven at Caruso evenly bakes the pizzas, enhancing the flavor of the tomato sauce and creating a stretchy, gooey cheese. Filipino diners often visit Caruso solely to savor the sweet, buttery, yet dense dover sole, which can cost between P9,950 and P15,000.
The meal is typically concluded with a silky-smooth panna cotta and its various toppings.
Striking appetizers
Caruso’s catering service is equally popular among its clientele. “The chefs bring their own utensils and pots and cook in the clients’ kitchens to maintain freshness. This gives guests the impression of dining at Caruso itself,” explains Francisco.
During embassy functions, the chefs create visually striking appetizers inspired by national flags. For example, a circle of cherry tomatoes on a bed of ricotta cheese represents the Japanese flag, while mozzarella with blue coloring, mangoes, and cherry tomatoes symbolize the Philippine flag.
Born in Genoa in 1934, Mina established a successful career in the Italian fashion industry. A chance encounter with Filipino businesswoman Evelyn Lopez in Florence in 1989 marked a turning point in his life. Their love story blossomed, and they eventually married.
Impressed by Caruso’s potential, the couple, who were frequent guests, acquired the restaurant. When Evelyn’s health declined, Mina sold his Italian businesses to devote himself fully to his wife and to Caruso. Tragically, Evelyn passed away at the age of 74 last November. Mina deeply regrets her absence, as they had shared a vision for elevating Caruso’s dining experience.
The loneliness is eased when he chats with guests at Caruso. When composer and close friend Jose Mari Chan is around, Mina often sings popular Italian songs such as “O Sole Mio,” “Volare,” “Azurro,” and Chan’s “Beautiful Girl.” Though Evelyn, his wife and business partner, is no longer with him, the show must go on.
