Fashion takes flight: Furne One presents avian-inspired creations
With a soundtrack of screeching birds and the dramatic rumble of thunder and lightning, designer Furne One presented his brand of dark and slinky evening wear for Amato last weekend. The Dubai-based Cebuano designer had previously shown a slightly different version of his “Birds of Prey” collection at Tops, an observation deck in Cebu, earlier this year.
This one for Bench Fashion Week featured a combination of sleek, sheer, and voluminous fabrics, accentuated by crystals and beading. He opened with an all-black set that showcased his talent for playing with textures and different fabric weights. This was followed by a red suite that included a handful of male models in black leather hoodies worn open that reminded one of falconry hoods.
In keeping with the dark avian theme, he fashioned black, lattice-style bodices that called to mind bird cages, and poufy peplums that mimicked a bird’s tail feathers.
He was also quite literal about it with headdresses made of black feathers and black towering ones styled like bird-filled branches. This is One’s trademark look, one we saw firsthand 15 years ago when he was the featured designer at the Red Charity Gala organized annually by Tessa Prieto and Kaye Tiñga.
For his gala that October in 2010, he created over 50 looks. Bustiers and mini dresses studded with Swarovski crystals were paired with diaphanous skirts that pooled around the models’ feet. In a review written for another paper, we noted how he made the overall look even more elaborate by sending out his models wearing towering headpieces and shoulder accents made of lightweight wood and sheer fabric.
Sticking to his guns
These were all present once again in the collection he showed last weekend. The designer is sticking to his guns, choosing to fashion variations on a theme. It’s what he’s known for and what his clients expect of him.
His glamorous, if dystopian, vision was honed to a fine point since his big win at the Mega Young Designers of the Philippines competition in 1994. His competitors then included fellow Cebuano Oj Hofer and Rajo Laurel. One would go on to join and win special prizes in Japan’s Women’s Wear Award and the Asian Fashion Grand Prix.
The accolades paved the way for apprenticeships at Christian Lacroix in Paris and at the New York City boutique of designer Josie Natori.
In an interview with the designer after his show, he described the Amato woman as someone who is “not tied to the dictates of fashion. She is rebellious, even maldita.”
One has been spending more time in Cebu and recently opened a café. Some of his creations are on display with some home accessories for sale, but he said that for now, it’s really a fashion café.
He has a partner in the café who will be managing it while he jets to and fro, meeting with clients who already know what they’re getting when they have a Furne One dress made. “I’m traveling again soon to Dubai after the elections,” he said.
