Foie gras is the classic centerpiece of a French holiday spread, and also one of the costliest things you can put on a cracker. Foie gras is priced like a luxury because the liver itself is cheap and everything around it is not. Ordinary liver sells for a couple of dollars a pound, so the premium comes from labor and a limited supply of fatty livers.

Inhumane and inexcusable

Price is not the only reason cooks look for alternatives. Foie gras production is controversial because the birds are fattened for their livers, and critics call the practice inhumane.

Birds are force-fed through a long metal tube to enlarge the liver, inducing a disease called hepatic steatosis, where the liver swells up to ten times its normal size. As a result, states like New York City and California, as well as some countries, have passed laws banning the sale of foie gras that was force-fed.

The thought of enjoying an indulgent spread at the cost of animal harm is hard to swallow. What’s more, this Christmas, we can expect the prices of imported goods to rise with the peso fluctuations.

Whichever side you land on, the result for many hosts is the same: They want the rich, celebratory flavor of a pâté without the cost, the sourcing hurdles, or the debate at the dinner table.

Enter faux gras

Faux gras (“fake fat liver”) is a plant-based pâté built from pantry staples. The most common version combines mushrooms and lentils into an umami-rich spread with a kick of fresh herbs that is close in spirit to classic pâté.

Each ingredient does a specific job:

• Lentils supply body and an earthy, savory base.

• Walnuts and pecans add the richness and fat that make the spread feel luxurious.

• Mushrooms and onion, browned in oil, bring deep umami.

• Herbs, soy sauce, lemon, and a splash of cognac or brandy add the seasoning and brightness that make it taste like a holiday pâté.

Unlike foie gras, it needs no special sourcing. This recipe is free from animal cruelty and packed with vitamins, minerals, and protein from its ingredients. The most important thing in the recipe is to source fresh herbs, as they make all the difference.

Four ounces of foie gras runs about $30, and a pound often costs $40 to $100 or more. A batch of faux gras uses lentils, mushrooms, nuts, an onion, and herbs, all ordinary groceries, and serves about six. It needs no special sourcing, keeps for days, and suits vegan and gluten-free guests. It will not taste identical to foie gras, but it is rich, savory, and spreadable, and it earns its spot on a holiday board.

How to make faux gras

Ingredients

12 button mushrooms

2 Tbsp olive oil

2 Tbsp butter

1 yellow onion, diced

2 garlic cloves

2 cups cooked green lentils (1 cup dry green lentils, soaked and boiled)

1 cup toasted walnuts

1 Tbsp soy sauce

3 tsp fresh rosemary

3 tsp fresh thyme

3 Tbsp sage or parsley

2 tsp cognac

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1 tsp brown sugar

1/8 tsp cayenne pepper

Salt and pepper, to taste

Procedure

1. Cook mushrooms with onions and garlic.

2. Add the remaining ingredients, along with the cooked mushroom mix, to a food processor.

3. Store in an airtight jar for 12 hours to harden.

Serving and make-ahead tips

Serve the faux gras chilled with crackers, hearty bread, or small toasts. A spoonful of shallot marmalade or a few pickles alongside adds a sweet or sharp contrast, as it would with traditional pâté. For a festive board, garnish with chopped toasted walnuts and a sprig of fresh thyme.

It keeps well, which makes it ideal for a busy holiday week:

• Refrigerator: up to 4 days.

• Freezer: up to 2 months, well wrapped. Thaw in the refrigerator the day before serving.

The recipe can be adapted, too. Cashews and pecans both work. Swap the nuts for those with allergies, or when on a budget, use tamari for a gluten-free spread. Skip the Cognac if you prefer an alcohol-free version.