Fresh perspective: How these designers won over lawmakers
When designers Bengt Enrique, 34, and Em Adizas, 39, first started visiting the House of Representatives, they were often stopped and questioned by security. Their observations during congressional sessions led to a novel idea. They noticed that many solons draped jackets over their barong Tagalog, diminishing the elegance of the traditional attire.
Seeking inspiration, Enrique and Adizas asked millennials and Gen Zs about their perceptions of the barong. The resounding response was that it was stuffy, typically reserved for weddings and funerals. A lightbulb moment struck last year: a piña barong styled like a bomber or biker jacket could offer a modern, versatile and stylish alternative. Since adopting this sporty barong for their House visits, the designers have been greeted with a salute from security.
Enrique and Adizas’ brand, Emerie Studios, is a fusion of their mothers’ names. Both graduates of SoFa Design Institute, they share a minimalist aesthetic and a deep appreciation for history, culture and travel, which inform their designs. Their work also serves a larger purpose: supporting local crafts and artisan communities.
Bomber and biker jackets
In contrast to the florid patterns often associated with piña barong, Emerie Studios highlights subtle textures and minimal details. Seed pearls add a touch of luxury to polo-style barongs, while a snip of the Philippine flag projects national pride. The brand appeals to the new generation of politicians who seek well-crafted, everyday pieces that reflect a minimalist Filipino style.
The Catalino bomber jacket, named after Adizas’ grandfather, is Emerie Studios’ signature piece. It highlights the piña fabric’s inherent sophistication rather than relying on excessive embroidery. For a more discreet look, a hand-dyed black version is available. The Crispiñano, a tribute to Enrique’s grandfather, is a biker-style jacket featuring a collar and large flap pockets.
The designers point out that although the piña barong bomber jacket has been done by other brands, their styles are sporty and crisp. Committed to quality, the designers incorporated imported ribbing for the neck and wrists. Premium zippers with Marikina leather pulls complete the refined aesthetic.
Agimat Partylist Rep. Bryan Revilla has commissioned subtle embroidery of magic symbols popularized by his late grandfather, actor-turned-senator Ramon Revilla. Sen. Bong Revilla, the solon’s father, sports a piña barong jacket adorned with his “B” logo.
Meanwhile, Marino Partylist Rep. Sandro Gonzalez’s barong showcases intricate sinuksok (colored thread inserts) with geometric patterns and wavy pin tucks that allude to his party’s name. Rep. Rachel Arenas of Pangasinan also patronizes the duo for their contemporary Filipiniana office wear.
To support Maranao artisans, Emerie Studios created a carabao brass pin for a piña kerchief, referencing the Boy Scouts and embodying the brand’s values of honesty and courage.
Ilocano connection
Emerie Studios began dressing politicians in 2019 when then Ilocos Norte 1st district Rep. Ria Christina Fariñas wore a terno with an inabel lIoko top and pleated skirt for her first attendance to the State of the Nation Address (Sona). She subsequently ordered suits for the Congress sessions and referred the designing duo to Rep. Grace Kristine Singson-Meehan of the second district.
This Ilocano connection opened the door to orders from 40 congressmen from their group, the Northern Luzon Alliance (NLA). They all wanted a piña barong presenting their native fabric, inabel Iloko, on the collar, cuffs, or chest instead of traditional piña barong patterns.
Fortunately, the designing duo took their clients’ measurements before the pandemic, ensuring work during the strict lockdowns. They were well-stocked with piña fabric from suppliers in Aklan. Their patternmaking and sewing courses from SoFA paid off. Enrique and Adizas taught their two sewers more advanced sewing techniques to fulfill their orders.
Likewise, they were grateful for their previous job as ghost designers for an online brand. It provided them with experience in developing and marketing a product at no cost. By the end of 2020, the orders for the 40 solons were complete.
More politicians took notice of Emerie Studios. The studio was behind the prenuptial photo shoot attire for Rep. Faustino “Inno” Dy V of Isabela and his wife, Santiago Mayor Alyssa Sheena Tan.
Last year, the designers also dressed the entire Dy family for the Sona. The solon sported a sleek barong with a flag emblem and patterned collar, while the mayor’s crepe balintawak was adorned with bugle bead appliqués of rice stalks, symbolizing a bountiful harvest. Their firstborn, Andres, wore a barong with popcorn-shaped piña appliqués, a playful nod to Santiago City’s corn production.
High-tech patternmaking
Despite their workshop being based in Pampanga, Enrique and Adizas frequently travel to Manila for client fittings, catering to those who prefer in-home or office service.
The duo has also seen a surge in bulk orders of their sporty barong for corporate gifts. Leveraging Instagram and their website, Emerie Studios has successfully tapped into the power of e-commerce.
While optimistic about the future, Enrique and Adizas acknowledge the challenges of an upstart. Much of their earnings are reinvested in sourcing materials and developing their craft. Given the time-consuming nature of piña weaving, maintaining a steady supply is crucial. To streamline their design process, they have adapted the CLO 3D software for virtual pattern making and sampling, significantly reducing costs and turnaround time.
With a growing clientele, Emerie Studios is now focused on expanding their market, particularly among those seeking minimalist Filipiniana designs.
