Iconic NYC steakhouse from ‘The Devil Wears Prada’ lands in the Philippines
Fans of the beloved film “The Devil Wears Prada” remember the iconic scene where frazzled assistant Andy Sachs (Anne Hathaway) retrieves a steak for editor in chief Miranda Priestly (Meryl Streep), only to have it dismissed with chilling indifference.
That snubbed steak? It came from Smith & Wollensky—a high-end steakhouse from New York City that’s now bringing its famous dry-aged, seared steaks to the Philippines. Even more exciting, this marks the brand’s Southeast Asian debut, with its first branch opening at The Finance Center in BGC, Taguig.
“This isn’t just a restaurant—it’s a slice of America, a symbol of hospitality, quality, and tradition,” says USA Ambassador to the Philippines MaryKay L. Carlson. “And as you can imagine, bringing this symbol of American hospitality to the Philippines—that’s like coals to Newcastle. This place is well known as the most hospitable place in the world. So that takes a lot of swagger indeed.”
Understated luxury
Taking over the entire second floor of the building, Smith & Wollensky’s space is divided into two parts: a spacious dining area for large groups, and a more intimate setting that features a bar and a stage for live music performances.
With expansive glass windows, dark woods, brass accents, and plush leather upholstery, the steakhouse’s main dining area invites guests to dine in timeless elegance. The adjoining bar features a lounge-like setting, with emerald-upholstered booths that provide both comfort and privacy for relaxed conversations over cocktails.
The common denominator? Floor-to-ceiling shelving, lined with various bottles of wine—perfect for aficionados looking to pair their steaks with a glass or two.
It’s also worth noting the creative Filipino talents behind Smith & Wollensky’s local concept. Fashion designer Rajo Laurel tailored the uniforms of the service staff, while furniture and interior designer Jed Yabut curated some of the restaurant’s art pieces.
World-class steaks meet Filipino hospitality
While Smith & Wollensky is rooted in American tradition, its Philippine counterpart champions the warmth and grace of hospitality the country is known for. This, paired with world-class USDA prime grade steaks—dry-aged for 28 days and meticulously prepared in-house—makes up the American steakhouse experience.
Kim Dinsmoore, US executive vice president of operations and international development of Smith & Wollensky shares, “We control the quality that is delivered on that plate—that’s not something every steakhouse can do. And I believe that’s the heart of it all here at Smith & Wollensky.”
Thus, building on their commitment to quality, the steakhouse elevates the dining experience further with showstopping steaks—each one a theatrical presentation in its own right. Highlights include the swinging tomahawk, a 44oz bone-in American wagyu ribeye that oozes rendered fat on a bed of mashed potatoes, along with the chateaubriand, a 32oz roasted center-cut tenderloin flambéed tableside.
Diners can also indulge in the uni fillet, a surf-and-turf-style dish featuring steak topped with a sliver of briny sea urchin and some compound butter—both of which add an indulgent richness and subtle oceanic depth. The halved bone marrow, on the other hand, is meant to be smeared like butter on their dry-aged steaks (like this slice of prime New York steak).
As for seafood options, fan favorites include the Angry Shrimp—a deep-fried battered shrimp that’s both sweet and juicy—and the plump, lightly salted, seared Hokkaido sea scallops.
Manila exclusive dishes
Classic US hospitality and premium American-style steak remain at the forefront of Smith & Wollensky, but even so, the team integrated some localized elements into the menu plan of their first-ever Philippine location.
Special rice dishes were also added to the menu, shares chef Cale Jackson, the culinary director for Asia. “It’s something we don’t usually do at Smith & Wollensky, but we felt we had to adapt. When we were here touring the Philippines, we noticed that Filipinos love to have rice with their meals. So my culinary team and I created three unique, fantastic, and tasty rice dishes that go very well with our awesome steaks.”
The Philippine-exclusive rice dishes include bone marrow rice (a twist on Cajun dirty rice but with bone marrow bits), Spanish rice (made with chorizo), and the popular foie gras rice (Japanese rice topped with seared foie gras and a decadent special sauce).
The signature Smith & Wollensky gigantic chocolate cake also gets a local twist as it is made with 100 percent Philippine cocoa for a homegrown touch of decadence.
“The Philippines is a big manufacturer of cocoa and has very high-quality cocoa,” praises Jackson. “So I mandated my executive chef and my chefs to use that to make our chocolate cake. For the first time, Smith & Wollensky’s famous 47-year-old chocolate cake recipe is getting a localized one. And it’s the one here in Manila, no less.”
