In menswear, Hermès speaks fluent Japanese

Veronique Nicharnian with the celebrity guest models —HIRO KIJIMA/HERMES

Hermès has had a long history with Japan. The venerable French luxury house arrived in the Land of the Rising Sun in the early 1960s, though accounts also say an imperial prince began commissioning the house for harnesses and other implements of saddlery, the brand’s legacy craft, as early as the start of the 20th century.

Thus, Hermès’ artisanal values, long before the rabid desire for its highly exclusive products invaded the psyche of the general population, has been ingrained in the Japanese consciousness.

On Oct. 24, Hermès presented the Tokyo edit of its men’s ready-to-wear for Fall/Winter 2024—originally shown in Paris last January—in Japan’s bustling capital, held at Maison Hermès, the stunning, two-edifice landmark of gleaming, iridescent glass tiles in the heart of Ginza, designed by Pritzker laureate Renzo Piano.

Interiors of the newly renovated Hermes store in the tony Azabudai Hills neighborhood of Tokyo. —CONTRIBUTED PHOTOS

After party next door at Ginza Sony Park, with the Maison Hermes in the background.

The event, dubbed “Hermès Ginza Calling,” marked by the presence of its longtime men’s universe designer, Veronique Nichanian, underscored the significance of the Japanese market for the brand. Japan reportedly is the second biggest market for Hermès menswear, second only to France.

Renowned for its discerning clientele and deep-rooted appreciation for luxury and craftsmanship, Japan has long been a crucial market for Hermès. By showcasing the collection in Tokyo, Hermès reinforces its commitment to this key market and its understanding of the sophisticated tastes of Japanese consumers.

In the Philippines, a relatively young market for Hermès, menswear is also gaining traction, with its VICs—very important customers—also gravitating to Nichanian’s impeccable tailoring with contemporary twists.

Team Philippines led by Hermes Manila GM Stephanie Chong (third from left) with (from left) VICs Faye Rosales Ayala, Bryan Yap, and Nathaniel Pajela; L’Officiel’s Loris Peña; Hermes Manila’s Tarrah Austria; Hermes Paris’ Jenna Auriol; the author; Dr. Earl Chua, a VIC; and SSI Operations’ Bianca Bailon

True icon

Nichanian is a true icon in the world of menswear design, who has been at the helm of Hermès men’s universe, overseeing everything from RTW to bags, shoes and accessories for 36 years—the longest serving artistic director of a fashion house of which she’s not its founder. Her enduring tenure is a testament to her exceptional talent and ability to consistently deliver collections that resonate with the brand’s core values.

The petite Nichanian, who went to work at Nino Cerruti straight out of fashion school, is 70, but you would never have guessed on seeing the sprightly, sneaker-shod, smiling woman who dashed on the Ginza store’s multilevel makeshift runway to take her bow after the show.

Nichanian has often said in interviews that what makes her job wonderful is that she enjoys creative freedom at Hermès—the culture is open-minded, and no one’s telling her what to make. If her longevity at her job is anything to go by, especially in the pervasive musical chairs of the luxury houses’ top creative posts, what she’s doing must be working for the Hermès bottom line. Hermès reported an 11.3 percent increase in sales for the third quarter of 2024, eclipsing its rivals.

Visionary approach

The Fall/Winter 2024 collection, a reflection of Nichanian’s visionary approach, showcased a blend of classic elegance and contemporary edge. She has always said that she never designs for one man, and she’s constantly reinventing, making sure to add some joie de vivre to her characteristically refined designs. Those familiar with her work would know how she pushes for innovation in the fabrics she uses—again, possible only in a company that allows for artistic autonomy.

What could have otherwise been a dreary stream of blacks and grays for the colder season got splashes of acid citrus; rubberized translucent overcoats over Prince of Wales check suits; peculiar argyle patterns on sweaters. And, yes, the silhouette was narrow.

And then, of course, there were variations of the Haut a Courroies, HAC to those in the know—a massive Birkin, if you will—that sophisticated men seem to like to carry.

Musician Atsushi Yanaka of Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra —KOJI SHIMAMURA/HERMES

The Tokyo presentation offered a captivating backdrop for the collection, the runway of which started outdoors, amid the rhythmic hum of engines and tires of the early evening traffic and the kaleidoscope of neon signs illuminating the night. The store’s sleek and minimalist design—its shelves stripped of all retail items for the event—provided the perfect setting to highlight the intricate details and luxurious materials that define Hermès menswear.

Guest models were a mix of famous Japanese actors, musicians, athletes, and architects.

Hermès is located at Greenbelt 3, Makati City.