Kenneth Cobonpue’s BGC café is straight out of a storybook
Crossing the threshold into Kenneth Cobonpue’s Fable Café + Lounge beside Grand Hyatt Manila Residences in Bonifacio Global City feels like stepping out of grayscale and into technicolor; somehow, I’ve come to know how it was for Alice stumbling into the surreality of Wonderland.
“Design to me is theater. The user is the audience. I wanted Fable to be a rabbit hole to transport the audience to a world of make-believe,” Cobonpue related to Lifestyle.
A painted path made to look like pebbles winds through the spellbinding space: a fanciful biome of manipulated materials that cross-pollinates nature with art and fantasy.
If I’m being honest, food seems secondary to the decor in this extraordinary world conjured up by the internationally renowned Filipino industrial designer. You go there to experience and to revel in pieces that came straight out of the genius’ fanciful imaginings. You go there because it will look pretty on your Instagram stories. You go there for the—dramatic pause—aesthetics. Somehow, it looks exactly like what you’d expect a café created and curated by the Kenneth Cobonpue himself, and more.
A trio of carabaos is his personal favorite element, serving as a DJ booth near the entrance. (“It’s designed so that the DJ looks like they’re riding a herd of carabaos while performing,” he said, adding that it’s a “playful and distinctly personal Filipino childhood experience of mine that I want to share with everyone.”) Giant leaves and flowers line the walls, while illuminated clouds and barnacle clusters hang overhead. Shelves upon shelves of liquor behind the bar look like they are suspended in tremendous water droplets. Caged curiosities like praying mantis, scarlet kingsnake, seaweeds, corals, octopus, skull and a disembodied hand holding a rose—none of it real, of course—as pendant lamps give the lounge a mischievous and mysterious glow.
The odd mishmash of marine and terrestrial creatures, and distorted proportions give the whimsical look an edgy vibe, just weird enough to draw your curiosity even deeper.
World of imagination
My introverted self loves the inclusion of armrests on the long comfy couches to serve as dividers, protecting guests’ personal space without disrupting the continuous line of the design. And the surprising heft of the dinnerware was something I did not even know I would be partial to.
Cobonpue said that it took almost a year from inception to production to get everything just right. “Breaking new ground is never simple, but the challenge of creating something fresh and exciting made the journey worthwhile.”
He added, “Fable is a world of imagination—a manmade interpretation of the natural world brought to life through thoughtful design. One of its most captivating features is how it transports people into a realm of awe and wonder.
“Guests often remark on how it feels like stepping into a dream, with a sense of magic in every corner. What makes it even more special is how the atmosphere shifts throughout the day.”
“During the day,” he continued, “the space feels bright and open, showcasing its organic textures and forms. In the evening, it transforms into something more intimate and enchanting. It’s not just a dining experience; it’s a journey into a world where nature and creativity intertwine.”
All the pieces in Fable were made in Cebu. And while most of the furniture were created specifically for it, many of the designs will eventually be made available for purchase. “I plan to continually evolve the look so that we can debut new ideas and offer our guests a glimpse into what could soon become part of their own spaces.”
Game changer
Each design element in the lounge was obviously attentively thought out. This is not to say that the menu wasn’t given as much deliberation. While the highlight certainly falls on his lifestyle pieces, Cobonpue laughingly related that he made sure the food is at least good.
And the dishes really aren’t anything to scoff at. The Beetroot Hummus is pretty and pleasantly earthy, while the Black Truffle Tortellini is rich and topped generously with shaved truffle and cheese. And the choices are surprisingly extensive: from brunch to cocktails to grazing platters on top of salads, sandwiches and soups, down to mains, pastas, appetizers and desserts. (The wine menu is a delight, like perusing a beautifully illustrated age-old storybook.)
“People have very high expectations from me,” said Cobonpue. “Every detail and design required careful thought—from the interior design to the menu, even down to the uniforms. What I design has to be a game changer not only in our country but the world.”
He added, “Our menu is a celebration of global flavors, thoughtfully curated to draw inspiration from a variety of cuisines. From vibrant appetizers to hearty entrees and indulgent desserts, each dish is designed to seamlessly complement our whimsical ambiance, transforming every meal into a sensory journey. Whether you’re savoring brunch with friends or unwinding in lounge mode with handcrafted cocktails and small plates, our menu offers an immersive and delightful experience within our space.”
Cobonpue’s own must-tries include comforting classics, such as Beef Tartare with Potato Mille-Feuille, and innovative creations, like the 48-Hour Miso-Marinated Seabass and reimagined Porchetta.
But do relax and go easy on the spirits while enjoying the scenery. Heaven forbid you have to use the toilet while inebriated and raring to go. The area is a maze of glass and mirrors—fascinating, even fun, but momentarily befuddling.
Fable Cafe + Lounge is just one-fourth of the nearly 900-sq-m property, which also houses a two-story showroom—with newer pieces on the ground floor and older classics up top—beside a gallery that’s under construction. While the cafe has been on its soft opening, the entire establishment will be open next month.
Fable Cafe + Lounge is at G/F Grand Hyatt Manila Residences, 8th Ave. cor. 26th St., Taguig City; call 0919-2678000 for reservations; @fablecafelounge on Instagram.