Khaiba and something kakaiba: Sonny Mariano reimagines Filipino comfort food
Sonny Mariano caught my attention when I dined at the recently concluded Balmori pop-up, Khaiba. The highly successful event showcased chef Sonny’s savory dishes, and chef Nouel Catis Omamalin’s signature desserts.
While we ladies chatted away, my gaze drifted to the delicate little dishes being placed in front of us.
My taste buds were tickled and pleased by the first appetizer, the laing baba ghanoush. It was a winner. Made with pureed grilled eggplants and laing, to which papadum is paired and dipped for that delicate crackle. I found the combination irresistible. The laing gave the traditional roasted eggplant appetizer a heartier flavor—a more satisfying taste.
The sourdough bibingka, clotted cream, adobo liver pate, and date honey were a pleasant coming together of old-time favorites. It was familiar but foreign. Classic yet trendy. Each bite was a decadent mouthful. The soft, bread-like texture of the bibingka was pleasant. The clotted cream and the liver—both rich—were made mellow by the drizzling of the date honey. The liquid date syrup also cut through the decadence of the clotted cream and the bitterness of the liver.
Wanting to savor as much as we could, we ordered all the appetizers on the menu. It was when I had a bite of the third appetizer—Mariano’s play on lumpia, filled with puréed ginataang kalabasa and prawn, capped with crab salad (a deconstruct of the much beloved ginataang alimasag at kalabasa) —that I knew he was different.
Mariano cooks with flair yet remains true to his childhood flavors.
In his words, “I like comfort food. I like it when my clients are familiar with what I am serving.” However, he sees to it that every dish has something new to delight his guests. A mizzle of flavored oil, a pickled vegetable, or a hidden crunch. It is Mariano’s ability to twist and tweak, here and there, that makes his creations one of a kind.
Embracing the world of food was an eye-opener for the chef. The different cuisines, tastes, and ingredients captivated his senses.
Where it all began
Prior to his education at Center of Culinary Arts, Manila, Mariano only knew of the food he enjoyed as a young boy from Nueva Ecija. But his rise to the pinnacle of the country’s dining scene was shaped by a series of pivotal moments.
It warmed my heart when Mariano intimated that he would never forget me. “As a young boy from the province, it meant so much for me and my family to see my name printed in the newspaper,” he said.
Turns out, I featured him on my Kitchen Rescue column in the Philippine Daily Inquirer in 2010 for snatching the gold medal for the pasta category and silver for Filipino cuisine at the first-ever Philippine Culinary Cup.
The win opened doors for him to explore. He ventured into the kitchens of the BDO Executive Lounge, where he realized that doing the same thing over and over again was not for him.
The chef slowly shifted to becoming a consultant. Mariano finds joy and fulfillment in creating new concepts and penning new recipes. To date, he is in charge of over a dozen food stalls, eateries, and restaurants.
In the course of our conversation, he confessed that he’s always been a dreamer with big dreams. Lately, Mariano finds himself marveling—often humbled and ever grateful for the way life has unraveled. His career has surpassed all that he once imagined.
After spending the afternoon with the chef, I observed a man accomplished beyond his years. One who listens intently, yearns to learn, and remains genuinely curious. Mariano loves what he does and approaches it with dedication. Most striking is his gentle demeanor and grounded nature—qualities that make success, both inevitable and well-deserved.
Laing baba ghanoush (4-5 servings)
Ingredients Laing:
- 1/4 cup palm oil
- 2 Tbsp ginger
- 1/4 cup red onion
- 1 Tbsp garlic
- 100g dried laing
- 2 green chili fingers (medium size)
- 1.5L water
- 2 cups coconut cream
- 2 Tbsp patis
- 1 Tbsp brown sugar
- 1 tsp salt
- Black pepper, to taste
Baba ghanoush:
- 1 recipe of laing
- 1/4 cup tahini paste
- 2 pieces grilled eggplant, peeled (medium size)
- Salt, to taste
- black pepper, to taste
Procedure Laing:
- Heat coconut oil in a pot over medium heat. Add ginger, red onion, and garlic. Sauté until fragrant and lightly golden.
- Add the laing and water. Bring to a boil.
- Add the chilies, coconut cream, patis, black pepper, and brown sugar. Simmer over low heat for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the laing is soft and mushy.
Baba ghanoush blend:
- Combine the laing, grilled eggplant, and tahini in a blender and puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
- Store in the chiller to let it set before serving.
- Serve with fried papadum chips or pita bread.
