Lifestyle’s guide to Baguio
When was the last time you went to Baguio? Whether you’ve gone a million times or are new to exploring this beautiful city—there are so many things to discover and experience here.
It may be the country’s summer capital, but we believe it’s a place you can visit and enjoy all year round.
The cooler temps are just one reason to love Baguio. Here are more. Take this guide with you when you go and have a trip to remember.
RESTAURANTS
Hill Station
Casa Vallejo, Upper Session Road
0915-8292166; 074-4242734
Mondays to Thursdays: 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m; Fridays to Sundays: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.
A trip to Baguio feels incomplete if we don’t eat at Hill Station. It’s a must. (And we usually try to grab a table by the windows). You’re guaranteed a delicious time.
After spending three decades working at her family’s restaurant Mario’s (another Baguio institution—don’t skip the Caesar salad), Mitos Benitez Yñiguez put up her own resto at the historic Casa Vallejo, and what a fantastic place she’s built.
Hill Station, a Miele Guide awardee, serves dishes from around the world, inspired by Yñiguez’s love of travel. There are so many mouthwatering items on the menu. Some popular picks are the Moroccan Spiced Baby Back Ribs, Ethiopian Mutton Berbere, Paella Valenciana and the Bistek Filipino which we’re still dreaming about. “The steaks are also superb,” said Yñiguez.
Caesar salad wasn’t part of the original lineup but customers, perhaps used to Mario’s menu, kept asking for it. So Yñiguez served her own take—with lots of anchovies and no bacon (we love bacon but trust us, after one bite, you’ll forget to look for it). You can also order a version with cold-smoked beef carpaccio. Yum.
Don’t skip dessert—we love the Canonigo, Mango Sans Rival, Death by Chocolate and, as a special treat, the Mango Flambé. We’ve also heard from locals that Hill Station serves a great frozen margarita.
You’ll have so many breakfast options—from omelets to waffles to Eggs Benedict (a favorite!) and more. Don’t miss out on the breakfast meats that they make in-house: pork tocino, different kinds of longganisa, sausages, tapang usa, ham, bacon and more.
“I like to make everything homemade—the deli meats, the sauces, the jams, we bake our own bread,” said Yñiguez. “We try to make everything as seasonal as possible.” Specials change every month.
Don’t forget to check out the pasalubong corner, too. So many great finds there: Hill Station’s jams, chutneys, salad dressings, guava tarts, mango tarts, cookies and so much more. They also have pottery from Sagada and pottery by Lanelle Abueva-Fernando and Jeff van den Broeck.
You can also bring home Hill Station’s deli meats (obsessed with their bacon) and what Yñiguez calls their “gourmet TV dinners”—Beef Kare-kare, Lengua Estofado, Pork Binagoongan, Spanish Callos, Bangus Sardines, all ready for reheating. “It’s comfort food. A lot of people going to Manila, they get a bunch of that because when they get home they don’t want to cook yet.”
You can also get a dose of their delicious food at Hill Station Bistro at SM City Baguio (Level 2 Sunset Terraces; 0945-1000793; 074-6375553; Mondays to Thursdays: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Fridays to Sundays: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.) and at Camp John Hay (Ayala Technohub; 074-6612544; 0945-2411463; Monday to Thursdays: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Fridays to Sundays: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.).
Chaya
72 Legarda Road
0915-9054820
Mondays to Sundays: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
We met a lot of locals during our recent trip to Baguio and when we asked them about their favorite places to eat, the first thing out of their mouths was always Chaya. Everybody loves the Japanese restaurant.
Sonoko Taguchi, a Japanese woman who has made the Philippines her home since 1994, started Chaya almost 15 years ago, when her youngest son was 7 years old. She wanted a business that she could run while continuing to devote time to her kids. The house on Legarda Road was perfect—she, her husband and kids could live in one part of it and run the restaurant in another.
Chaya serves contemporary Japanese cuisine. The menu is extensive and everything we tried was delicious. The Salmon Seafood Salad and beef salad were delightful, as were the Salmon Chips, tempura, sashimi and makis. The Pork Katsu Curry was comfort on a plate and the rest of our team gave their Sukiyaki, Gyudon and teriyaki the thumbs-up. We can still taste the Yakitori Momo—bites of perfectly grilled chicken thighs.
Taguchi’s touch and incredible attention to detail can be seen in each dish—in the way the pieces of tempura are arranged and how they stay crunchy throughout the meal, in the salads that are as pretty as they are yummy, in the beautiful presentation of the makis. At Chaya, you also eat with your eyes.
Enjoy your food with sake, shochu or Japanese beer, but of course there are plenty of nonalcoholic options, too, including teas and shakes.
The service is also great—it’s easy to see why people fall in love with this place.
Ask about the Hawaiian quilts, Tanaguchi’s longtime project that allows her to help provide extra income to Baguio mothers she has trained to become quilters. There might just be some in stock for you to purchase. The quilts are beautiful and meticulously made, and for sure a unique find.
You can also enjoy Chaya’s food at SM Baguio (Upper Ground Floor, Left Wing; 0945-4388495; Mondays to Sundays: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.). Their SM menu offers a build-your-own lunch special.
Amare La Cucina
22 Outlook Drive
0916-3321522
Mondays to Sundays: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Amare La Cucina has branches and fans all over Luzon now including La Union, Ilocos Sur, Pampanga, Metro Manila, Cavite and Tagaytay, but its roots are in Baguio and it continues to serve Italian fare there.
Edmark Bustos started the business over 10 years ago in what he calls “a small house”—just four tables, with him serving as the cook, his wife serving as the waitress and cashier, and one dishwasher.
Today, Amare La Cucina has grown along with its menu, which now includes over 10 wood-fired pizzas (including Baguio’s Ube Pizza!) and over 10 pastas, steaks, skewers, fried chicken, platters, rice meals, and more.
Another reason to love Amare? The Cherry Tomato Series, introduced last month to help Benguet farmers. A canceled order had left the farmers with 600 kilograms of cherry tomatoes and so Amare came to their aid, buying the tomatoes and making sure they didn’t go to waste by introducing special menu items like Bruschetta, Farmer’s Salad, Puttanesca Blanca and Mama Edna’s Pizza, named after Bustos’ mom.
Bustos takes pride in how their food is made from scratch using quality ingredients. The service is another thing Bustos is proud of, promising a complete experience for diners who go to their restaurants.
In Baguio, Amare also has a branch at Microtel (117 A.R. Villalon St.; 0966-7040402).
Oh My Gulay
La Azotea Building, 108 Session Road
0939-9127266; 074-4460108
Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Fridays to Sundays: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; closed on Tuesdays
Oh My Gulay, or OMG to the people who know and love it, may be Baguio’s pioneering vegetarian restaurant, but the food is so tasty even meat eaters would enjoy it. We always go for their pastas—Anak ng Puttanesca, Heneral Luna’s Punyetang Shitake, Brotsa ni Antonio Luna and Pasta Mestizo. They also serve salads, pancit, sandwiches, omelets, vegetarian versions of sisig and bistek—all with clever and surprising names. They have crepes for dessert and an assortment of hot and cold drinks.
Owned by National Artist for Film Kidlat Tahimik, his wife Katrin de Guia and their apos Kalipay, Binnulan, Kalinaw and Amihan, this special place is part of Vocas (Victor Oteyza Community Art Space), which means you will also get to see art when you visit. (Nona Garcia’s “After Artists” exhibit is currently running.)
There’s plenty of greenery, too—plantitos and plantitas would be in heaven. It’s also a great place for catching the sunset.
Another wonderful thing about Oh My Gulay is how they support new artists from Baguio and Cordillera, also giving them a space to exhibit and sell their art.
Cafe by the Ruins
25 Shuntug Road
074-4424010
Mondays to Sundays: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.
We always order the same thing at Cafe by the Ruins. Ernie’s Kamote Bread with butter and jam, Cheese Lumpia Straws filled with carabao cheese, smoked fish and basil, the Baguio bagnet, and for dessert, pavlova—always a satisfying meal.
And then we’d get more Ernie’s Kamote Bread, butter and jam plus herbed cheese to bring back to Manila.
Since it was put up by artists and friends in 1988, Cafe by the Ruins has gone through a lot—the big earthquake, the pandemic, even a fire—but it continues to thrive: the long lines of people who willingly wait for a table are proof of that.
FOOD HITS
Ay Wada Kassa Lomi House’s Lemon Chicken
People go to Ay Wada Kassa Lomi House (Bakakeng North; 0939-3271010; 5 a.m. to 10 p.m.) for the huge bowls of piping hot special lomi topped with crunchy pork and egg, but it was their Lemon Chicken that we became obsessed with (we’d eat it right now if we could). Cooked to order, the Lemon Chicken arrives at your table hot, crunchy and drenched in a tangy lemon sauce that will have you reaching for rice. And at just P310 for a platter, it’s a great deal. Next time, we’re also trying the Orange Chicken.
Vizco’s Strawberry Shortcake
We know, we know, Vizco’s (Porta Vaga Session Road; North Wing SM Baguio; Fog Photo Ayala Land Technohub Camp John Hay; GF SM Baguio; 0917-5790962; 0920-9642407) is already in Manila, but it just hits different when you enjoy it in Baguio, where it originated 20 years ago. The layers of chiffon cake, strawberries, cream and frosting come together for a heavenly bite. Their Mango Cake is delicious, too.
Peerless Burgers
Hankering for a burger while in Baguio? Head to Peerless Burgers (2F MM Gara Bldg, Marcos Highway, Bakakeng Central) for the Smashburger, available in single or double. Not really a smashburger kind of person? Go for the Classic Cheeseburger. Their Chicken Tenders are pretty good, too.
Rico’s Lengua De Gato
Our favorite Baguio pasalubong are these buttery, melt-in-your-mouth cookie slivers. There are many brands that make lengua de gato in Baguio, but our favorite is Rico’s (Yang Subdivision Bakakeng Central; Rico’s Fine Foods on Facebook; 0920-9026879; 074-4469192).
COFFEE SHOPS
Hot Cat Specialty Coffee
1 Yangco Road, corner Brent Road
0916-7611408
Mondays to Sundays: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
If you love coffee or cats or both, you’ll enjoy Hot Cat Specialty Coffee. They serve filter/pour over coffee (they have an ever-changing lineup from different parts of the world), hot and iced espresso-based drinks, and cold brew coffee. Not a coffee drinker? No problem. They have teas, cold brew teas, soda (strawberry/peach/passionfruit/lychee), “frukult” soda, chocolate milk, strawberry milk, chocoberry milk, matcha latte, chai latte, and more. And they serve food as well. They have outdoor seating so you can enjoy that fresh Baguio air.
But before you do, don’t forget to explore their shelves where you’ll find all kinds of cat items: toys, memorabilia, books. At the counter, you can buy stickers featuring their cat mascot.
Hot Cat claims that they’re “serving the best coffee in town, hands down.” You be the judge.
Hatch Coffee
135 Easter Road
09567929323
Mondays to Sundays: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
This third wave coffee place is beloved by many. People go there for the coffee, the atmosphere, which is away from the hustle and bustle of the city, and the food. Hatch serves sandwiches (their grilled cheese sandwiches, including an ube one, are popular), burgers, and all-day breakfast.
Try the Hatchata, their take on horchata, or the Dirty Hatchata, a drink so revered that a shirt was created to celebrate it.
Foam Coffee
Travelite Hotel Shuntug St. Baguio City
09776023750
Mondays to Sundays: Open 24 hours
Foam Coffee opened its first branch three years ago, creating a place where people can go for a cup or two, hang out with friends and share a meal, chill, or maybe do some work. The bonus? It’s open 24 hours, every day, so you can go anytime you want.
Foam Coffee also has another branch in Baguio (15 Legarda Bukaneg St.; 09178611167; Mondays to Sundays: 8 a.m to 1 a.m.) and a branch in Clark.
Leandro’s Bistro
Ili-likha 32 Assumption Road
09668967251
Mondays to Sundays: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Young artist Leandro Magtibay’s Leandro’s Bistro is a bistro slash coffee shop owned in the wonderland that is Ili-likha.
Choose your coffee, hot or iced—espresso, espresso with milk, Americano, Spanish latte, or cold brew. Try the B.E.S.T. sandwich—that’s bacon, eggs, spinach, and tomatoes. They also serve pasta, rice meals, and what they call a Full Hunter’s Meal: Pork and beans, two eggs, two pieces of bacon, pinuneg (blood sausage by the Igorots), alfalfa, and bread. The cheesecake is a hit, too.
BAKERIES
L’Atelier Du Grain
37 Military Cut Off
09087591878
Mondays to Sundays: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
French pastries and breads in Baguio? Oui, thanks to chef Didier Derouet. L’Atelier Du Grain’s French butter croissants are flaky, buttery, fresh, and a beautiful way to start the day. The Chocolatine (pain au chocolat) is a sweet treat, as are the strawberry Danish and almond croissants. We love the honey walnut tart, too.
We regret not bringing a box of L’Atelier Du Grain pastries back to Manila. We will never make that mistake again. And next time, we’ll try the madeleines, kouign amann, milk chocolate truffle brioche… what the heck, we’re making it our mission to try them all.
Victoria Bakery
16 Loakan Road
0746611689/09209428424
Mondays to Sundays: 7:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.
A lovely place to sit and enjoy breads, pastries, pies, cakes, sandwiches, and drinks. Or you can just go and buy your bakery favorites. The cream puffs, which come in many flavors, are bestsellers, and so affordable. The original is just P25 per piece while the rest—chocolate, matcha, ube, strawberry, wintermelon milk tea, and more—are P30 each. Buy eight pieces and they’ll be wrapped in a nice pink box with a bow—another great pasalubong idea.
Victoria Bakery also has branches at 26 A Mabini St. (0927-265-4706/074-423-1193), at the ground floor of Baguio Center Mall Magsaysay Avenue (074-665945 /09156130200); G/F Pilando Center Magsaysay Ave (074-423-1095/09989579751) and G/F Tiong San Trinidad Supermart (074-4232048).
SHOPS
Mt. Cloud Bookshop
1 Yangco Road corner Brent Road
Mondays to Sundays: 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.
(074)4209154
Mt. Cloud Bookshop is celebrating its 14th anniversary this month—and they did it by holding a city-wide scavenger hunt.
We’ve always been and always will be in love with Mt. Cloud Bookshop. From its original location in Casa Vallejo to where it stands now, Mt. Cloud has always felt like a haven for book lovers by book lovers. It devotes its space and shelves to local books—there’s no shortage of Filipino titles and Filipino authors to discover here. Book categories include Imagined Worlds, Bagets, Lessons Not Learned, Jose Protacio Rizal Mercado Y Alonso Realonda.
Having a hard time picking a title to bring home? Surprise yourself with Mt. Cloud’s Blind Date With a Book. The books are wrapped—so you can’t judge them by their cover!—giving you only hints, like “#156: Short stories; Records of a paranormal childhood; Indulge in the memories of strangers and friends who have since long passed; English” or “#177: Poetry; Musings on the arts, music, painting, literature, and the human condition; English.”
If you’re lucky, you might just end up visiting when they’re holding literary events they’ve become known for (they have monthly open mic nights called Third Monday from the Sun).
While you’re there, buy the Baguio Pasalubong Pack postcards and stickers by Baguio calligrapher Alley Garcia—they’d make great pasalubong and souvenirs for yourself. Mt. Cloud also has a postcard mailing service—a great way to show your loved ones in the Philippines and abroad that you were thinking of them while you were in Baguio.
Easter Weaving
2 Easter Road
09606049765
Mondays to Saturdays: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closed on Sundays
In search of handwoven products? Then you have to go to Eastern Weaving. “It’s the best place to go to for weaves,” said Mitos Benitez Yñiguez, the woman behind Hill Station. It traces its roots to 1908 and carries on with its mission “to preserve the traditional hand-weaving process of the Igorot people and to preserve the ethnic designs of cultural attire of the people of the Cordillera region.” Learn about Cordillera culture and shop for beautiful woven textiles, clothing, table linens, wallets, bags, shoes, blankets, baby carriers, and more.
Pilak Silvercraft
37 Leonard Wood Rd
09279818035
Mondays to Sundays: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Since the 1970s, Pilak Silvercraft has been promoting and showcasing handcrafted silver creations of local artisans and silversmiths.
Today, Pilak continues to be a reliable source of beautiful silver jewelry, accessories, and souvenirs. They can also customize pieces for you.
DL Silver
1107 Everlasting Alley, Maharlika Livelihood Complex
09561832928
Mondays to Sundays: 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
DL Silver offers exquisite, elegantly designed silver jewelry that would make perfect gifts for yourself or a loved one.
NIGHTLIFE
Baguio Craft Brewery
Ben Palispis Hwy, KM 4
09620527750
Mondays to Sundays: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.
Ten years ago, Baguio Craft Brewery became the first microbrewery slash tap room north of Metro Manila. They have different beers on tap, including our favorites Blondie and Strawberry plus three seasonal beers: Passion Fruit, Mango, and Kiwi.
You can enjoy your beer with food—they have a ribs platter, crispy pata, lechon kawali, chicken wings, bbq, quesadillas, nachos, tacos.
Kids can come eat and pets are also welcome. They have live bands performing from 7 p.m. on Wednesdays to Sundays.
Piano Bar at The Manor
The Manor at Camp John Hay, Loakan Road
074-424-0931 to 43/0917-869-3640
Mondays to Sundays: 6 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Enjoy drinks and live music from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. at this beautiful hotel piano bar.
Louie Y’s at the Lodge
The Forest Lodge, Camp John Hay, Loakan Road
09671867286
Mondays to Sundays: 10 a.m. to 1 a.m.
“Elevate your spirits, embrace the vibes” is the tagline of this luxurious bar named after Manila nightlife legend Louie Ysmael. Their signature drink is Louie Y’s Twister, a mix of vodka, white rum, gin, peach tree, and blue Curaçao. Happy hour is from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.—buy 1 get 1 on drinks.
That watermelon margarita slush is calling out to us.
The Ampersand
30 Leonard Wood Road
09175320396
Tuesdays to Sundays: 9 p.m. to 2 a.m.; closed on Mondays
A favorite of the younger crowd, The Ampersand keeps the party going even on Sundays.
Boveda Sky Lounge
Abanao Square View Deck
09177231306
Mondays to Sundays: 10 a.m. to 2 a.m.
This rooftop bar offers a view of the cityscape plus food, drinks, and music.
Vandolph Legarse, an event stylist from Baguio, is a regular. He loves the vibe there.
They have an acoustic band playing starting 8 p.m. from Sundays to Thursdays, and DJs on Fridays and Saturdays.
Hotline
Palace Avenue 21 Legarda Road
Mondays to Sundays: 6 p.m. onwards
Spot the red phone booth and walk in to find yourself transported to Hotline, a hidden bar that promises “electric vibes, nonstop beats and endless fun.”
The Hive Bar
4th Floor Summer Pines Residences
288 Aspiras – Ben Palispis Highway
09951641450
Wednesdays to Sundays: 7 p.m. to 2 p.m.; closed on Mondays and Tuesdays
The Hive Bar claims to be “the biggest and loudest drag bar in Baguio City.” Catch a drag show and support the local drag queens. Mrs. Tan, a fabulous queen from “Drag Den” Season 2, is making a special appearance tonight and performing with The Hive Queens and The Hive Dancers.
They have drag shows from Wednesdays to Sundays starting at 9 p.m. They don’t charge an entrance fee on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays. To find out who will be performing, find The Hive Bar on Facebook and Instagram (@thehivebarbaguio). Don’t forget to bring cash for tipping the queens.
SPECIAL SPOT
Ili-ikha Artists’ Watering Hole
32 Assumption Road
(074) 246 8117
Mondays to Sundays: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
“I did not design or build this, it just happened,” Kidlat Tahimik said of Ili-likha Artists’ Watering Hole, the creative space run by him and his family.
Walking into Ili-likha feels like stepping into a dream. You wouldn’t know where to look first. Explore the space, there’s plenty to see. They have an indie cinema, different food establishments, and shops by Baguio artists.
Eat, drink, shop—lots of great finds here. You can bring your pets, too—Ili-likha has cats on the premises. Just make sure your fur babies are friendly, leashed, and wearing diapers.
Do you have a Baguio favorite you want to tell us about? Email lifestyle@inquirer.com.ph and lifestyle.inquirer@gmail.com and use the subject “Baguio favorite.”