Michael Rider’s Celine debut is a glimpse into a new legacy, while paying homage to his roots
Since 2023, Celine has steered clear of the runway, opting instead to unveil their collections via cinematic short films. But now, Celine is finally back to celebrate Michael Rider’s debut featuring long wool coats, knitwear, elegant scarves, leather jackets, and even skinny jeans.
The fashion show, held at Celine’s Paris headquarters, was a much-anticipated event. Guests were willing to sit through the rain if it meant catching a glimpse of the American designer’s next move. And surely, he did not disappoint.
Instead of wiping the slate clean, Rider decided to build on Celine’s rich history of premium fashion. Many of his pieces included nods to his own history, as a former creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren and a designer under Phoebe Philo, who worked as Celine’s creative director from 2008 to 2017.
Taking the reins as chief designer of Celine after Hedi Slimane, Rider says that he “did not want there to be a sense of erasure.” He continues, “There was a foundation to build on, that to me felt modern. It felt ethical. It felt strong.”
On the runway
Striking silhouettes stalked the runway as skinny jeans made their way back into style and wide-leg trousers were cinched at the ankle or tucked into leather boots. Staples of the collection included boxy blazers that dropped just above the mid-thigh and slim belts with occasionally large buckles. Business met fashion in the muted trench coats and the high-neck sweaters.
Later in the show, primary colors began to make their appearance as models sported red logo-laden boots and scarves, puffy blue sweaters tied at the waist with leather jackets, and rich, red striped ties.
Different shades of green were also heavily featured, with one look consisting of an oversized olive blazer, matching trousers, and a satin scarf of the same color. But the look was not monochrome. A baby blue collar peeked out of the blazer, and our eyes drew toward the black knit socks that gathered just below the calves.
Models were adorned with chunky, multi-colored rings, from their pinkies to their thumbs. While not every look involved heavy jewelry, whenever and wherever it was featured, it was hard to miss. Many black ensembles were paired with thick gold necklaces or leather waistbands joined together by chunky gold chains.
The proportions were deliberate and exact in Rider’s debut, as shape took center stage. No matter the cut of the trouser, models’ figures always appeared elegant and elongated.
Guests in attendance
Anna Wintour, who recently stepped down as editor in chief of American Vogue, sat front row next to Jonathan Anderson, the newly appointed artistic director of Dior.
British actress Naomi Watts was also seen in attendance. Even Kim Taehyung of BTS was spotted eagerly awaiting Rider’s debut. He had just completed 18 months of South Korean military service but flew to Paris nonetheless for this can’t-miss occasion.
“Schitt’s Creek” alums Dan Levy and Emily Hampshire were seen enjoying the show as well. Levy had introduced Hampshire to Rider’s work as Hampshire expressed her excitement.
Hampshire noted that Rider is keen to keep a low profile. “You can’t find him on the internet, and there’s not many people you can’t find on the internet. He’s so private, and so this is really exciting to see the secret let out of the bag here,” she says in an interview.
All this stir led to a successful milestone event, but despite how significant it was for Rider, he made sure that fun was always factored in.
Behind the scenes
Celine is known for its minimalism and timelessness, but the brand is not distant nor cold. Rider’s intention is for the pieces to look and feel lived in. “I’ve always loved the idea of clothing that lives on, that becomes a part of the wearer’s life, that may capture a moment in time but also speaks to years and years of gestures and occasions and change, of the past, the present and the future, of memories, of usefulness and of fantasy, of life, really,” he says.
Life, in its nuance and complexity, is truly encapsulated in Rider’s debut as his philosophy surfaces in the clothing. Muted browns and bright greens were a playful mix that Rider included because he “would never want to be perceived as cynical.” “Having a sense of humor in the luxury space is a beautiful thing,” he adds.
This is just the beginning for Rider as he continues his legacy of serious and spirited design.
