Natori Edit—unisex, understated—to launch in PH next year
Filipino American designer Josie Natori graced the runway, clad in a sleek gunmetal jacquard pantsuit from her latest collection. Following her graceful bow, models took to the stage, showcasing the brand’s core products: luxurious but versatile nightclothes and loungewear. Kaftans, perfect for beach weddings, and pajamas and robes, easily transformed into party attire with bold accessories and heels, were among the highlights.
The collection also featured ready-to-wear pieces, including black ponchos, toppers, and wraparound dresses, jackets, daytime ensembles, and the couture range of silks, embroidered and beaded dresses and bustier tops, all curated to suit the Philippine climate.
Natori’s signature patterns—arabesques, scrolls, paisleys, florals, and dragons—set the label apart. The grand finale was a fully embroidered silk kaftan, commanding a six-figure price tag. While the fabrics are sourced from Europe and Hong Kong, the pristine craftsmanship is proudly produced in Natori’s factory in Pasig.
“This year, we celebrated the Year of the Dragon, incorporating the motif into our capsule collection through prints and embroidery. The black artisanal collection is a new addition,” explained Natori, founder and CEO of The Natori Company.
The designer’s ideas for her fabrics stem from a lifetime of collecting antique textiles and prints from flea markets. Her extensive archive, which includes her customized wardrobe from renowned French fashion houses, continues to fuel the creative vision of her design team.
“I’ve always been fascinated with artisanship. I have fabrics from Japan, China, France, Turkey, the Philippines, Uzbekistan, Laos, Tibet, Vietnam, Britain—Natori has always been about the East-West sensibility. Our prints have been inspired by the cherry blossoms of Japan and the peonies from China. The archive serves as a resource for the design team. They are labeled with the period for reference,” she explained.
Weathering economic shifts
The 48-year-old brand has weathered economic shifts, particularly in North America, its primary market.
“We’re holding up. This year was more challenging for luxury brands as the sales were soft,” Natori acknowledged.
Consumer sentiment toward luxury purchases became cautious in the lead-up to the United States elections. However, Natori’s core product line, undergarments and lingerie, remained strong. The brand’s e-commerce platform contributes nearly 50 percent of its global sales.
The designer has opted out of Fashion Week, focusing instead on digital marketing. Natori’s products are available in stores and boutiques across the United Kingdom, Asia, the Middle East, and Australia.
Natori visits the Philippines every six weeks to be with her centenarian mother, Angelita Cruz. “She has a better memory than I do and keeps fit with dance classes,” she said.
While she’s overseeing prototypes in her factory, her only son, Kenneth, president of The Natori Company, manages the headquarters in New York.
“I’m finding it fun but challenging. You have to be fast and come up with more capsule collections,” she said.
Responding to the evolving lifestyle of customers, she launched Natori Edit, a collection of easy tops and bottoms in comfortable fabrics, priced under $200. “The classic Natori features vibrant prints. Natori Edit is understated and it’s not in your face,” she explained.
“As a 48-year-old brand, the challenge is to create collections that appeal to the next generation. The lifestyle is different now. Still, we have to keep a balance in keeping our loyal customers and attracting the younger ones that don’t have the same desires and lifestyle,” she added.
Unlike the other Natori categories, known for their luxurious feel, Natori Edit offers comfortable cotton pieces, and will be launched in the Philippines next year. Additionally, the RTW label has introduced unisex styles such as t-shirts and matching pants, robe tops, and hoodies in bold dragon prints.
Exclusive partner
The Natori brand entered the Philippine market in 1997. “Rustan’s was the only luxury department store then, so it made perfect sense to have them as an exclusive partner,” she said.
Her father, the late construction magnate Felipe Cruz, had been a good friend of Rustan’s founder Bienvenido Tantoco since their high school days. They often hosted alumni gatherings in their hometown of Malolos, Bulacan.
Last May, after the 40-day mourning period for Zenaida “Nedy” Tantoco, Rustan’s Group chairman, Natori shared her experiences at the memorial service. Tantoco had been a constant presence at all of Natori’s fashion shows. During her fall-winter preview at the Grand Hyatt last week, the matriarch’s absence was felt, despite the attendance of her son, Anton T. Huang, Rustan’s and Stores Specialists Inc. president and CEO.
Yet, Huang has maintained the same keen eye as his mother, as the brand continues to thrive in 2024.
Natori merchandise manager Anne Santos confirmed consistent sales growth. While lingerie and kaftans were popular during the pandemic lockdown, preferences have shifted toward ready-to-wear, particularly coordinated outfits. High-quality polyester kaftans with custom prints, priced around P9,500, remain popular for special occasions. Some loyal customers even order the same style and printed pattern but in every color.
Despite their hefty price tag, ranging from P250,000 to P470,000, Natori Couture pieces, adorned with intricate hand embroidery and beadwork, attract discerning customers. Some clients even spend over a million without hesitation, recognizing the countless hours of skilled craftsmanship behind each piece.
Like most entrepreneurs, Natori remains optimistic. “Next year will be better.”
