P12-M necklace is highlight of jewelry exhibit
Jeweler Hans Brumann collaborates with goldsmith Angelino Gabon, paper artist Tony Gonzales and sculptor Impy Pilapil for wearable art
Hans Brumann is exhibiting all-original jewelry designs with sculptor Impy Pilapil, paper artist Tony Gonzales, and goldsmith Angelino Gabon, at his shop at Powerplant Mall in Makati City until April 23. “After the Masters III” is the third time the master jeweler has tapped artists from other fields to create wearable art, and the highlight for this show is a P12-million platinum necklace with sparkling emeralds.
Abrooch of two overlapping ellipses, accentuated by a diamond, references a fern’s tendril. Instead of a precious stone, an abstraction of a man in gold, sitting on a carabao horn bench, forms the head of a gold ring. Caught between slender bands of gold, fire opals glow on earrings. An alternating arrangement of cylinders of blue lapis lazuli and circles of green jade make a bold bracelet.
These designs come from the minds of four creatives— master jeweler Hans Brumann, his assistant designer and best goldsmith Angelino Gabon, furniture designer and paper artist Anthony “Tony” Gonzales and sculptor Imelda “Impy” Pilapil. Their works are exhibited at Brumann’s namesake store at the Powerplant Mall, Rockwell until April 23.
Dubbed “After the Masters III,” the exhibit is the third show where Brumann has tapped artists from other fields. In the past, he collaborated with such luminous names as National Artist for Visual Arts Arturo Luz and architect Lorenzo Calma.
Although Brumann expects originality—as in something that hasn’t been seen before— he still makes sure that the design will sell.
Signature stones
Brumann’s new collection consists of new precious stones such as the Mexican fire opal and kunzites in a rare color of vivid violet. Then there are his signature stones such as the emeralds, tourmalines and blue topaz and the diamonds, naturally.
The most expensive piece is a platinum necklace of flowers with sparkling emeralds as the central floral disks. Its locket is likewise punctuated by an emerald. At P12 million, the necklace is waiting for its rightful owner.
It takes a trained eye to appreciate the quality of Brumann’s work, from the impeccable polishing of the precious metals to the innovative way stones are neatly and securely set to enhance their brilliance.
Twenty years ago, Brumann sent Gabon to the Stahli Goldshmeid company, in Bern, Switzerland. The jewelry company is owned by his colleague, Jurgen Stahli. Gabon then took up advanced courses in platinum smithing in Lucerne. Impressed by his apprentice’s progress, Brumann has since been mentoring him.
In this collection, Gabon created a pair of earrings and a ring made of green and copper tourmalines, set on matchsticks of white gold. “I told him to put diamonds to freshen up the design,” adds Brumann. Then there’s a set of earrings and a ring set on a checkered pattern of emeralds and diamonds and a green tourmaline on a stack of dainty gold bars with diamond studs.
Brumann cites Gabon’s gold bracelet with a combination of green jade and blue lapis lazuli as creative yet salable.
“If you look at the jewelry today, especially those made in Hong Kong and China, most are small diamonds that have been put together. They tend to look the same. This is not the case in my company. Everything is made in my atelier in the Philippines. They are one of a kind,” says Brumann.
Arthritis rings
Pilapil is one of his good friends and a longtime collaborator. In this collection, she interprets her signature sculptural designs, inspired by the sea and nature, into wearable art. The ripple brooch consists of three individual circular currents that can be worn individually. The pair of dangling earrings, comprised of a diamond cradled in gold and highlighted by a series of crescent lines of gold, symbolizes a maze. Pilapil explains that the jewelry symbolizes the maze one goes through to find the self.
The sea anemone ring with gold tentacles hugging a diamond was immediately bought by a client.
However, the local market may find the designs progressive, preferring safe designs.
“I want to bring new things,” maintains Brumann. “Some say, ‘I don’t think we can wear it.’ I don’t believe them. Of course, they can wear it.”
Nevertheless, Pilapil also considered a special market— people with arthritis. The Arth Rings are bands that are custom-fitted around the deformities of the wearer’s finger.
“After a certain age, many men and women develop a certain bend on their fingers, especially on the pinky. The Arth Ring is a fashionable way of addressing this concern. Hopefully, it will put the finger back in shape before the arthritis worsens. The design certainly worked for me,” says Pilapil.
Crumpled gold effect
Gonzales’ talents in paper art and doodling are highlighted in this collection. The man on the bench atop the ring was inspired by his doodles of a man sitting or standing.
Gonzales’ paper art is reflected on the set of pendant, bangle and ring wherein the gold resembles twisted paper. Two gold rings resemble layers of crumpled paper with three diamonds peeping out. Their production entailed the use of lost wax casting, wherein a mold is created around a wax model to get the crumply, raw-edged effect.
The designer’s favorite work is the set of a white gold ring and earrings, encased with a matte finish that exudes a soft gray tone. Gonzales favors the gray color scheme for its soothing quality.
“When I looked at his sketches, I found keishi pearls in different colors. These pearls are surrounded by tiny diamonds. The band is still rough from the casting. We didn’t touch it. That is the finishing,” explains Brumann.
He points out that, in contrast, Gonzales’ geometric ring is polished for shine to accentuate the two black pearls.
The designer also conceptualized an asymmetrical pair of earrings—a pearl stud for one ear and a dangler for the other. The opposite earring is a diamond stud cascading with waves of white and yellow gold while nestling a pearl. “There is satisfaction in seeing somebody wearing your design. Your idea becomes a part of that person,” says Gonzales.
