Pharrell Williams paints a portrait of the modern dandy for Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring-Summer 2026
It was never going to be a conventional runway show. Under Pharrell Williams’ direction, the Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2026 Men’s Collection unfolded as something far more immersive—a study in global style, a conversation between cultures, and a love letter to the enduring influence of modern Indian sartorialism on the contemporary wardrobe.
The setting set the tone before a single look appeared. As the Centre Pompidou, that emblem of Parisian modernity, stood on the brink of its five-year transformation, its façade became the backdrop for a monumental game of Snakes and Ladders, imagined by Studio Mumbai’s Bijoy Jain.
The ancient Indian board game, with its winding paths and unpredictable climbs and descents, offered more than playful symbolism. It became a poetic mirror for the collection itself—a reflection of craftsmanship, opportunity, and the beautifully uncertain nature of the journey ahead.
Williams’ latest chapter for Louis Vuitton is an ode to Indian sartorialism, reinterpreted through the lens of the modern dandy. But here, dandyism is stripped of its stiffness. In its place, soft, sun faded tailoring, languid layers, and garments that seem to have absorbed the light and stories of every place they’ve touched.
Silks, leathers, and fine wools are worn as though weathered gently by the sun, their textures delicate, their tones subdued. Cashmere spun with silk, llama, and vicuña, is brushed to a raw, tactile finish. The effect is intimate and timeworn, as though the clothes have lived a life before they even meet the wearer.
The palette drifts effortlessly from city to desert, from the saturated colors of India’s spice markets to the sun bleached shades of worn architecture and weathered fabric. Indigo purple, blended from navy and violet, takes the place of black, while light beiges, the color of sand brushed canvas, soften the sharp lines of suiting. Burgundy, orange, and dusty pastels echo the faded vibrancy of old textiles left too long in the sun. Even denim undergoes transformation, woven in the earthy, roasted tones of coffee beans, its threads revealing themselves slowly with wear.
Amid the refinement, a playful twist: the long-awaited debut of the Louis Vuitton x The Darjeeling Limited motif. First seen on screen in Wes Anderson’s whimsical 2007 film, the intricate imagery of cheetahs, elephants, palm trees, and other cross-continental creatures found new life across striped shirting, denim sets, tailored coats, and cashmere overshirts. It appeared on semi-tan leather luggage, tagged with vintage style white travel numbers, its initials replaced by a proud LVM—Louis Vuitton Malletier.
There is a tactile poetry to the accessories. The iconic Speedy P9 is no longer just a bag but a canvas for storytelling, rendered in painted stripes, ostrich leather, Sahara finish crocodile, and intricate tree of life weaves; its surfaces embroidered with animal motifs that speak of distant places and forgotten tales. The Mini Shopper in crocodile leather, studded with pearls and semi-precious stones, gleam like heirlooms unearthed from a collector’s attic.
Even the shoes seem shaped by the journey. The LV Jazz loafers, in pastel suedes, ostrich, and aged leather, speak of city wanderings, while the LV Flip, oversized and cut in crocodile and suede, feels made for desert strolls. The LV Yeti boots and LV Remix hikers, embellished with subtle gems, climb seamlessly from street to summit, nodding to India’s mountaineering traditions.
Williams’ obsession with craftsmanship extended to jewelry. Bracelets set with onyx, amethyst, and tiger’s eye, aged gold anklets, and guilloché-treated silver necklaces, their intricate finishes designed to be noticed up close. Even sunglasses, with their trunk-inspired metal corners and softly faded lenses, carried the spirit of a well-loved heirloom.
The entire collection unfolded to a soundtrack as expansive and layered as the clothes themselves. Composed and produced by Williams, the music wove together voices from across the globe—from the gospel warmth of Voices of Fire to the cinematic touch of A. R. Rahman, the bold verses of Doechii, Tyler the Creator, and more. It was more than accompaniment. It was an extension of the collection’s spirit, a celebration of culture, connection, and the shared language of craftsmanship.
As the final chords faded and models drifted through the life-size Snakes and Ladders board, one thing became undeniable. This wasn’t simply a showcase of fashion. It was a reflection of how clothing can carry stories of travel and memory, and of quiet, unspoken luxury.
And as Williams continues to chart this new course for Louis Vuitton, his vision feels sun-kissed, softly confident, and impossible to ignore. The house is moving, evolving, journeying. The destination that remains deliciously unwritten.
