Putting the spotlight on Western Visayas cuisine
Back in 2021, staunch western Visayas cuisine advocate Rafael “Tibong” Jardeleza Jr. asked me to invite chefs to his annual Tabuan Cooking Competition, where we not only got to judge chefs and cooks on their edible innovations but, as Tibong promised, also got to feast on what Iloilo had to offer food-wise in between jury duty.
Along for the ride were Sandy Daza, Don Baldosano and Thirdy Dolatre, and Kevin Navoa of Hapag. The trip proved to be so memorable for the last two that they dedicated a whole menu to the region, the much anticipated follow-up to their maiden offering “Metodolohiya,” featuring dishes that have left an impression on their palates and memories.
“We have never forgotten how much we loved the food and how deep their cuisine was,” says Dolatre. “Because of how we were amazed by this trip and the cuisine, we decided to do this as the first of our Regional Cuisine Series.”
Food trip
Although the initial draft of the menu was strong, a couple of gaps needed to be filled, and that’s why some of the team members recently did a trip for additional research, which led to more realizations and discoveries. It helped that one of the visiting crew members was a cook from the region who helped maneuver their way around towns. To make the journey more immersive, they rented a car and boarded a Roro (roll on, roll off) to reach the neighboring islands.
“When we landed in Bacolod, our cook Jairus was generous enough to let us into his family’s home to try his mom’s cooking. We specifically requested to try a dish called tambo. It was amazing and inspired one of the dishes we created for the menu,” Navoa recalls.
They also had a reunion with Jardeleza over a seafood feast at Iloilo restaurant Breakthrough, spent a day in Guimaras to learn and understand the process of making artisanal salt (tultul), and through the help of Slow Food Southeast Asia Councillor Ramon Uy Jr., met cacao farmer Chris Fadriga who grows the world’s rarest cacao variety, and Enting, who is recognized as the kinilaw master.
Tasting menu
All these experiences are immortalized through a tasting menu that includes a sweet corn custard crowned with bamboo shoots and Negros blue crab meat doused in coconut sauce; a batchoy consisting of homemade noodles, crispy pork face, and pork bone broth; skewered chicken parts with an annatto oil glaze; and a 24-hour, slow-cooked pork belly roulade with a soup soured with batwan and made hearty with jackfruit and pigeon peas—their version of kadyos, baboy, at langka; and as a nod to napoleones, baked puff pastry filled with toasted rice pastry cream and ripe Guimaras mangoes.
Completing the dining experience is an array of wines curated by sommelier Erin Ganuelas-Recto. “I am most excited about the Champagne and inasal pairing,” she says. “This pairing is something I often do myself when ordering inasal with the classic isaw and pecho combo, and I wanted to share this magical experience with everyone.”
The chefs intend to heavily feature regional cuisine not just in the current menu but in the succeeding ones too. “It’s important that we do this because now we understand that we also have that obligation to tell the stories of the unsung heroes who deserve so much more than people give them credit for,” says Navoa.
“This is just the beginning,” adds Dolatre. “Through this regional series, we hope to showcase the depth and diversity of Filipino cuisine, one region at a time.”
Hapag is at 7/F The Balmori Suites, Hidalgo Drive, Rockwell Center, Makati City.
