Sensitive scalp? Choose a plant-based hair makeover
I should have gone green on my hair decades ago.
When I was young and adventurous, I thought it would be fun to get my hair colored. I went to the salon but I didn’t get to stay long.
Growing up, my allergies were so severe, I’d been rushed to the ER several times. I’ve had all sorts of rashes cover every square inch of my body, lost much sleep from the discomfort caused by the irritation, been prescribed medication of ever-increasing potency and dosage. I even almost got kicked out of school for constantly falling asleep in one class, which in hindsight was actually the side effect of the antihistamine kicking in.
It was so bad and I was so sick of it that my first adult decision was to give up my extensive food allergens and become a vegetarian.
That day at the salon, the skin test at the back of my ear almost immediately produced an adverse reaction: swelling and acute itching (presumably some redness as well). Suffice to say, I wasn’t going to play a game of dye or die, so I left, and my hair had remained the same color since—until a few days ago.
The recent hair makeover session at La Provence Salon in Central Square, Bonifacio High Street, made me hopeful about finally having a bit of fun with hair color.
Phyto is a range of plant-based hair and scalp care products created in the 1960s by pioneering hairdresser Patrick Ales. After noticing how chemicals damaged his and his stylists’ hands and thinking that what harms the hands would harm the scalp, he used his passion for and knowledge of plants to create a gentle line of products that would nourish the scalp and improve hair quality.
Each product contains botanical decoctions (much like tea infusions) at the heart of the formula. Rosemary helps protect the scalp, bisabolol reduces redness, and white mallow brings more shine to the hair fiber.
Healthy scalp
“His motto was ‘You cannot achieve beautiful hair without a healthy scalp,’” said Phyto Paris Asia export manager Lea Chazeau Piat. The idea mirrors how nourishing the soil first and foremost ensures a healthy growth of plants.
Rustan’s brought Phyto to the Philippines almost 10 years ago. The French brand now has three complementary “universes” in its arsenal: antihair loss (shampoos and treatments to prevent hair loss and encourage regrowth); hair and scalp care (shampoos, conditioners, masks, and leave-in products for various concerns such as volume, damage, dullness, dandruff, and sensitive scalp); and coloring kits (plant-based natural pigments that come with a color care range to lock the color in and prevent fading).
According to Piat, the most in-demand products in the Philippines are for coloring and hair loss, with different treatments for either hereditary or reactional causes: stress, diet, postpartum. “Depending on each concern, you will have a full range of products,” she added.
Treatments start with personalized hair and scalp analyses where clients discover exactly what their hair needs. My strands were deemed super black, strong, healthy, and thick (yay), but my scalp was a little oily with some product buildup and dandruff (yikes).
Since I’d be getting a scalp treatment, we skipped the Phytopolleine Scalp Solution for now (it can be applied once the scalp recovers).
My hair was shampooed twice: the first to just wash the hair, and the second one was massaged onto the scalp. The anti-itching shampoo for sensitive scalp reduces redness and itching, while the anti-dandruff shampoo requires a two-minute pause to allow the release of the ingredients and let them seep into the scalp.
The softness conditioner that followed—for detangling and bringing more shine to the hair—felt so deliciously silky.
All in
While getting a haircut, I got tested for the hair color mix on the crook of my elbow. The formula contains no ammonia or sulfate, and has been tested for efficacy and sensitivity.
My hormones have shifted so dramatically through the years that many of my previous food allergens no longer affect me, but it’s always a good idea to check beforehand when intending to apply anything new to sensitive skin.
A few minutes in and I felt a prick and a tingle. A bit later on, the spot started turning rosy under the light cappuccino-hued smudge. But while it wasn’t the nonreaction I had hoped for, it was far more subdued than I’d expected. I felt bold. I felt brave. I went all in.
Each box containing a coloration kit has a milk developer, a coloring cream, a color protecting mask, gloves, and an instruction leaflet, making it easy to use at home. Two kits were sufficient to cover my thickish shoulder-length hair. I could do two colors lighter or darker (I chose lighter) than my current. But with virgin hair, I was told the color usually comes out darker.
So I wasn’t expecting much, just giddy about being able to give it a go after all these years. An hour later (after a wash and some styling with volumizing spray that gives the hair more body from the roots), the difference was subtle but the deep hazelnut hue actually gave a welcome dimension to my locks, offering a fresh change without being too much of a drastic one.
My hair smelled of something like pleasantly sweet chlorophyll for a couple days (possibly because I wasn’t supposed to wash it for that long), which I didn’t mind but might not be for everyone. In any case, using the rest of the Phyto products for additional hair care is bound to leave the strands feeling light, soft, and smelling fresh anyway.
