Taste the best of Negros in a day
Bacolod is poised to become a major dining destination. Domestically, this claim has already been validated. But internationally, 2025 will cement its position as a culinary hub in the Asian region.
Jason Tan, who was born and raised in Bacolod, is already looking forward to this, especially since he has been working as a Department of Tourism-accredited tour operator for more than 20 years. He is president of the Association of Tour Guides of Negros and also the national president of the Philippine Federation of Professional Tour Guide Associations Inc.
“There are a lot of DIY travelers who arrive in Bacolod and go on their own, relying mostly on blogs or the internet on places to visit,” he says. “But there’s more to these places that demand just a visit or a photo. Going on a package tour with a guide, you get the history explained to you, the culture described to you—and that goes the same with the food. You get shortchanged without the tour guide’s assistance.”
Asked what his one-day food itinerary will be, he was quick to drop some familiar names. “Upon airport arrival, I will take you to Silay where you get to try the empanada of Emma Lacson. There are so many empanadas out there, but her recipe has been handed down from generations and still cooked the same way—same place, same oven, and same recipe. You can visit where it’s actually cooked and watch how it’s prepared. There’s a charm to it.”
Gamblers’ food
Then Jason suggests to walk over to El Ideal to sample their garlic lumpia made with ubod and chicharon. And after, the guapple pie, which, he claimed, is probably not found anywhere else in the Philippines.
El Ideal is known to be the oldest bakery in Negros Occidental. It used to be the haunt of gamblers. The hacienderos of Bacolod used to gamble a lot and the food at El Ideal was what they ate as they could hold it in one hand and continue to play with the other.
Before proceeding to the south, he suggests to drive by Talisay not just to get a glimpse of the ancestral houses in the city, but also to have bitso-bitso at Didi’s Cafe. Said to be the Filipino donut, this kakanin is made of a batter composed of rice flour and coconut milk that’s been fried then glazed with caramelized brown sugar.
For lunch, chicken inasal in Bacolod is a must. “It’s comfort food for the locals. We never go through a week without having it. When there are surprise guests or meetings and late nights, we have that delivered,” he says.
There are several outlets to try this regional specialty. Aida’s is top of mind but the locals have their own suki or hole-in-the-wall shop that they go to. It’s Jonanz and Lola’s for Tan, who frequents these two eateries for their native chicken inasal. For more restaurant type of places, he recommends Masskara and Chicken House. “It’s all up to the person’s preference.”
A cake for all
Apart from this grilled favorite, there’s kansi, an Ilonggo sour soup made of beef shanks and jackfruit. The top two spots for this are Sharyn’s and Eron’s, just walking distance away from each other. The former sells three versions of the dish—sizzling, fried, and traditional.
For afternoon delights, Jason’s personal favorite is Rolly’s napoleones. But for more variety in cakes and pastries, there’s Calea, Bob’s Cafe, and Felicia’s. “Also Ann Co Cakes for their frozen brazos,” he adds. “There’s a cake for everyone.”
Come dinnertime, he brings guests to pala-pala places, which is what we call in Manila as paluto or dampa. Among the popular options are Diotay’s and Gina’s.
Back in the day, Jason recalls going to these places after a round of drinks with friends. “We usually went around midnight when the catch of the day would arrive. We chose fishes from the sellers, brought them to a nearby carinderia, and had them cook it the way we wanted.”
For tour packages, contact Jason Tan or other members at Association of Tour Guides of Negros on Facebook. Follow the author at @fooddudeph on Instagram.
