The Row’s silent grip on fashion and luxury
The Row reflects our conflicted relationship with fashion today. We want prestige without exclusion, luxury without hierarchy, and taste without judgment. But fashion and luxury have rules, and The Row never pretends otherwise.
The epitome of quiet luxury
Founded in 2005 by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, The Row represents a rare brand of purity. No logos, no influencer partnerships, and not even phones are allowed at their shows. Instead, the brand relies on consistency and quality. Paradoxically, that very restraint is what makes it so powerful and so coveted that they once again won the 2025 Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Award for American Accessory Designer of the Year, marking their seventh win.
Some people remarked that the twins had emerged from hibernation to just accept the award, but that is exactly the point—they intentionally kept themselves separate from the brand, while releasing collections that set trends.
And unlike other celebrity brands, The Row has never relied on star power to sell itself.
The Row is the epitome of quiet luxury, characterized by its minimalist cuts, impeccable tailoring, and indulgent fabrics such as cashmere, silk, and structured wool. Some of their most popular bags include the ‘90s bag, Soft Margaux, Margaux, Marlo, Park Tote, India, Jouve, and the Half Moon. For footwear and ready-to-wear, favorites include the Hugo suede mules, Awar ballerina flat, Bariem trousers, Malika coat in wool and cashmere, Kolara dress in silk, and Mantia cashmere scarf.
Celebrities are often seen carrying the brand, with Taylor Swift recently spotted with the Half Moon alongside Travis Kelce, Sofia Richie Grainge wearing a sculpted wool gown from the Winter 2025 collection at the Baby2Baby Gala, and Kendall Jenner frequently appearing with signature bags like the Henri and Margaux.
Exclusion, by design
The brand is highly effective at placing barriers along the path to purchase, the most significant of which is its price. Prices begin in the four-figure range, making sample sales feel almost competitive in nature. Customers camp outside stores overnight, line up for hours, creating a frenzy that plays out in viral videos on TikTok.
Watching these clips, it’s easy to see the dopamine rush shoppers feel after scoring a crew neck, a cashmere sweater, or a button-down.
Economically speaking, the perception of a deal often outweighs better judgment—a point reflected in social media comments noting that, despite the hype, the pieces are quite basic given their price, and the discounts aren’t even that steep.
But there’s a fascinating paradox here, perfectly captured in Neelam Ahooja’s recent open letter on Substack. Neelam—a self-proclaimed Row collector who influenced many to buy the brand—has since been sidelined by the label, according to Business of Fashion. She called the brand out for engaging in the same theater of class, elitism, and exclusion. Her frustration stems from the fact that the brand has actively prevented her from receiving recognition or access.
She writes, “You want the noise, but only when it’s echoed by your chosen few. It’s the same tired theatre of class, elitism, and exclusion.” And she’s right. It is known for near-perfect curation. Even their Instagram feed is literally just art because the brand positioning is rooted in exclusion.
Its unapologetic restraint feels uncomfortable in a culture obsessed with openness, but that is exactly what gives the brand value.
