The runways are taking burgundy beyond fall
Spring and summer makeup tends to lighten up with the season. Pinks get sheerer, bronzer comes back into rotation, and lip colors usually follow suit. However, the spring/summer 2027 (SS27) shows went somewhere deeper.
Burgundy and its close relatives—wine, oxblood, berry, brick, and plum—appeared throughout fashion month, but not always in the form of the dark matte lipstick we know well. At Missoni, the color was blended across the cheeks and bridge of the nose. Tom Ford covered deep red lips in glassy shine. Dolce & Gabbana played with rich lip colors in finishes that moved between matte and gloss.
The timing is what makes the color especially interesting. Burgundy usually returns with fall yet here it is heading into SS27, looking considerably less seasonal in the hands of makeup artists. Beyond the runway, Pat McGrath used a blurred wine-colored mouth for John Galliano’s new Re{form} Zara project, photographed by Steven Meisel.
Rather than saving burgundy for a dark matte lip, recent looks offer several ways to work the color into makeup.
Bring burgundy inward on the cheeks
At Missoni SS27, makeup artist Lynsey Alexander brought blush toward the front of the cheeks and lightly over the bridge of the nose. The placement created a post-sun flush rather than the lifted, sculpted effect of blush swept toward the temples.
Backstage, Kiko Milano So Chic Trio Blush was mixed differently, depending on each model’s complexion rather than relying on one universal shade.
To recreate the look, start on the apples of the cheeks and blend inward toward the nose rather than outward toward the hairline. Use whatever pigment remains on your brush or fingers across the bridge of the nose—keeping the edges diffused so the color resembles a natural flush.
Go deeper than pink
Cult Gaia SS27 took a different approach to blush. Makeup artist Raoul Alejandre reached for berry tones that weren’t too pink, creating a deeper flush against fresh skin. The color was noticeable without looking heavy, with the models’ natural complexion still visible underneath.
If pink and peach usually dominate your blush collection, burgundy’s neighboring shades are worth exploring. Berry, muted red, raisin, and wine give cheeks more depth while still working as everyday color. Start lightly and build until you can see the undertone—the goal isn’t necessarily a darker blush look, but a richer alternative to the usual pink.
Take the color to the eyes
Tom Ford SS27 offered a more dramatic option. Makeup artist Lucy Bridge worked deep red around the eyes, extending the pigment above and below the lash lines in a hazy wash.
One particularly striking version was paired with a red gown, where the eye makeup echoed the clothes without becoming an exact color match. The complexion remained clean and the lips nearly bare, leaving the concentrated red around the eyes to carry the look.
It’s also an interesting alternative to the brown, gray, and black pigments typically used for a smoky eye. A burgundy pencil can be drawn close to the upper and lower lashes and smudged before it sets.
You don’t need to take the pigment as far around the eye as the runway version, either. A thin smudge along the lashes introduces the same reddish tone while keeping the effect easier to wear.
Blur your wine-colored lipstick
Outside the SS27 runway calendar, another recent fashion image offers a softer way into burgundy. For John Galliano’s Re{form} Zara Vol. 1— photographed by Steven Meisel—Pat McGrath paired pared-back skin with a diffused wine-colored mouth.
Instead of the precision usually associated with dark lipstick, the pigment appears deeper through the center and softer around the lip line. The blurred finish gives the color a worn-in quality, especially against minimal eye makeup.
It’s simple enough to recreate without a lip pencil. Apply lipstick toward the center of the mouth, then use a fingertip to press and blend the pigment outward. Stop before reaching a perfectly defined edge. Lip balm tapped over the top can soften the color further without turning it into a high-shine gloss.
Play with the finish
Not every model at Dolce & Gabbana SS27 wore the same lip. Instead, the beauty direction allowed lip color to move from matte to glossy depending on the model—a detail the house said was intended to reflect each person’s character and individuality.
It’s a useful way to think about burgundy beyond finding the right shade. Texture can completely change the mood of the color. Worn matte, a deep berry or wine feels more defined; add a layer of gloss and the same pigment becomes softer, juicier, and a little less serious.
If you already own a burgundy lipstick you love, there’s no need to buy another version of it—wear it straight from the tube for full impact, blot it down for a stain, or press clear gloss over the center of the lips when you want more dimension.
Don’t treat burgundy as seasonal
Burgundy may have a reputation as a fall color, but there’s no reason to pack it away once the weather warms up.
What changes is how you wear it. A sheer wash on the cheeks feels lighter than a sculpted berry blush, while smudged liner brings warmth to the eyes without the weight of a traditional smoky look. On the lips, blurred edges, balm, or gloss can make even the deepest wine shade feel less severe.
Instead of thinking about whether burgundy belongs in spring or fall, play with placement, pigment, and finish. The color can stay the same; the way you wear it is what changes with the season.
