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Tokyo’s umami powerhouse brings ‘tonkotsu-gyokai’ broth to Manila
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Tokyo’s umami powerhouse brings ‘tonkotsu-gyokai’ broth to Manila

Niño Angelo Comsti

When chef Nakamura, the brains behind Inosho Ramen in Tokyo, was invited by Ramen Nagi founder Satoshi Ikuta to do a monthlong pop-up in Manila back in November 2023, he didn’t expect that it would eventually lead to the opening of his first branch outside Japan.

The overwhelming response was partly responsible for it, claims Jamie Garaci, general manager of the Ramen Nagi group.

“We first experienced Inosho Ramen as a kitchen takeover at one of our shops, and the response was incredible … and made it clear that there was a real demand for something new and exciting in Manila’s ramen scene,” Garaci said.

“That inspired us to open a dedicated space for Inosho Ramen, introducing a different kind of broth and a fresh perspective for ramen enthusiasts looking for something beyond the usual.”

On top of that, Nakamura adds, “It’s 90 percent because of the people involved.” Apparently, the chef was already searching for an international spot. And after the Manila stint and meeting the right people, plus the fact that the Philippines is a growing market, opening Inosho in the country was fate.

Tsukumen —CONTRIBUTED PHOTOS
Chef Nakamura

Complex and potent taste

When it comes to ramen, the metro is already spoiled for choice. But there’s always room for another player.

Founded in 2006 by the renowned chef, Inosho is built on nearly two decades of perfecting an umami-rich tonkotsu-gyokai broth that’s slow-simmered for two days, resulting in a bowl that has deep flavors and provides an experience unlike any other. The indulgent marriage of porky tonkotsu and gyokai (a combo of bonito, mackerel, and dried baby sardines) provides a complex and potent taste.

The menu includes the two dishes they brought over for the pop-up: Inosho Ramen and Kara Kara Uo Ramen, with a 12-hour, slow-cooked braised pork as well as their tsukumen counterparts.

Chashu Gohan

Customers can order add-ons like the ajitama or soy-marinated soft-boiled egg, gohan or Japanese white rice, and a trio of jiro or veggies—one made up of bean sprouts and cabbage, a spicy version, and another with tangy crushed tomatoes.

There is also a thoughtfully curated bar program and a collaboration with Christian Lansang, a Michelin-trained chef who worked in top kitchens in Tokyo and Sweden.

“The menu they wanted initially was to complement the ramen but also stand on its own as bar food,” says Lansang. “It wasn’t until I met Nakamura a couple of weeks ago that I actually redid the whole side menu and really focused on doing a mix of his flavors, familiar menu items, and a bit of my own stuff.”

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Bowl of Inosho Ramen

Even the Inosho chef is excited to add more PH-exclusive items. “We’re inspired by Filipino cuisine and the people and how they eat their meals. That’s inspiring us to make a new dish,” he says.

Though ramen is the main bait, they made sure there’s plenty of other items. Besides, Inosho is not meant to be just a ramen shop. “It’s a place where creativity and craftsmanship meet,” says Garaci. “Extending the menu allows for a broader, more dynamic dining experience that keeps guests coming back not just for ramen, but also for unique dishes that push the envelope.”

Inosho Ramen is at 129 Bautista corner Tordesillas Streets, Salcedo Village, Makati City

Follow the author @fooddudeph on Instagram.

 

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