Where the Adriatic meets the archipelago
Fresh from her triumphant Italian pop-up, chef Len Ingco walked into my kitchen with quiet confidence, ready to have me taste dishes that defined her Italian debut.
The amberjack kinilaw she put together was ultra-refreshing. Delicate fish slices made bright by a subtle leche de tigre foam and a surprisingly delightful cherry-walnut compote. The last-minute shaving of kaffir lime zest lifted the fish in a citrusy, fruity, and nutty play—with a clean finish.
On the other hand, Ingco’s seafood kare-kare was reimagined and elevated. Think prawns and mussels grilled for smokiness, and squid pieces briskly tossed in a pan with olive oil to stay tender. And the accompanying bagoong rice and velvety bisque-like kare-kare sauce completed the comforting yet luxurious tasting dish.
Ingco’s food definitely represents her cooking style, which she defines as “borderless, but rooted.”
On finding her purpose
Before Italy welcomed her, Ingco spent years moving through different kitchens, taking on different roles to hone her craft. Her eight-year stint in Singapore further shaped her journey, as she built a corporate career in food innovation—creating culinary solutions for global companies.
Ingco recalled how she developed meatballs for a well-known brand —mixing in enhancers, artificial binders, and ingredients she couldn’t even pronounce. It was then she realized that she was not where she wanted to be.
Inside, there was a longing in Ingco to express herself, to cook with her own voice, and to cook real food.
Southeast Asia meets Southern Europe
Italy was a dream come true. Ingco long wished to cook there, and it was her best friend (who lives in Italy) who helped make it happen. Yes, it took a while for things to unfold, but they did. And one day, chef Mattia Borroni of Ristorante Alexander in Ravenna invited her for a collaboration.
She remembers the thrill and the horror all too well. “Could I really serve Filipino and Southeast Asian flavors to an Italian fine dining crowd? Would they understand bagoong? Would they embrace kare-kare? Would they get me?” Those were questions racing through her head.
She described the fully booked opening night as nothing short of magical. The vineyard glowed with strings of lights, long tables stretched under the evening sky, and the scent of summer grass and wine wafted in the air.
Ingco prepared an aperitivo—inasal—presented yakitori-style. Then came her first course: the kinilaw. “I held my breath,” the chef confesses. She held it long and hard, and relaxed only when she saw the smiles spread across the diners’ faces.
In between Filipino fare, Borroni paraded her own regional masterpieces. Then the main course, which was Ingco’s dish—Adriatic seafood, kissed with Southeast Asian flavors, vegetables in coconut and annatto… known to us as seafood kare-kare with bagoong rice pilaf. The curiosity of the guests gave way to delight. Her kare-kare was a hit.
The evenings when Ingco and Borroni shared a kitchen were moments when Southeast Asia and Southern Europe came together in a tasty embrace. Homegrown and proudly Pinoy, Ingco cooked our cuisine for the world to taste and to enjoy.
The young woman who first stepped into CCA Manila in 2000 has come a long way. And if anything, Ingco’s time in Italy has proven that Filipino food and Filipino chefs can stand tall anywhere in the world.
Adriatic seafood with bagoong rice pilaf and kare-kare sauce
Ingredients:
- 1 Tbsp annatto seeds (soaked in 1/4 cup hot oil)
- 2 Tbsp olive oil
- 1/2 cup onions, chopped
- 4 garlic cloves, minced
- 1/2 cup roasted peanuts, blended to a paste
- 1/4 cup peanut butter
- 2 cups lobster, shrimp bisque, or seafood stock
- 1/2 cup coconut milk
- Salt and fish sauce, to taste
For the seafood
- 6 prawns (head on, shell on)
- 200g squid, cleaned and scored
- 200g clams or mussels (cleaned)
- Drizzle of olive oil
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- Splash of lemon juice
- Bok choy or pechay
- Japanese eggplant, grilled or steamed
- String beans or French beans, blanched
Bagoong rice pilaf
- 1 Tbsp bagoong
- 2 Tbsp olive oil or butter
- 1/4 cup onions, finely chopped
- 1 cup jasmine or dinorado rice (cooked, cold)
- 1/4 cup white wine
- 1/4 cup seafood stock or water
- 2 Tbsp coconut milk
- Pinch of sugar
Procedure
Sauce
1. Heat annatto oil and olive oil in a saucepan. Sauté onions and garlic in it until soft.
2. Add peanut paste and stir for 2 to 3 mins until fragrant. Add peanut butter and lobster bisque gradually while whisking, until smooth.
3. Simmer until thick. Adjust seasoning with fish sauce and a splash of coconut milk. Strain or leave it as is (optional).
Seafood
1. Season prawns, squid, and mussels with salt and pepper. 2. Give it a squeeze of lemon juice and a drizzle of oil, enough to lightly coat the seafood.
3. Grill or sear seafood on high heat until just cooked.
Bagoong rice pilaf
1. In a pan, sauté onions in olive oil until translucent.
2. Add bagoong and cook until aromatic. Deglaze with white wine and seafood stock.
3. Add rice, stir to coat. Finish with coconut milk and a pinch of sugar.
4. Cook until fluffy.
To serve
1. Arrange seafoodc, rice, and vegetables (3 slices per plate).
2. Serve with sauce.
3. Garnish with crushed peanuts, microgreens, or calamansi wedges.
While chef Ingco is in town, she is open to cooking for an intimate group of six. To know more, visit her at @marileningco on Instagram
