Why this Italian chef is kissing pizza goodbye
While taking cooking lessons in Turin, Italy, restaurateur Annabel Lichaytoo Tanco appreciated chef Roberto Boggio’s refined cooking, especially his sauces. The bagna cauda, a blend of mashed anchovies and garlic softened in olive oil, yielded a savory umami vinaigrette. His tagliatelle or ribbon-shaped pasta was a counterpoint to the Bolognese, a rich, meaty ragù fragrant with sofrito, aromatics, and white wine, and enriched with milk. He also taught her how to prepare a good steak: choosing the right cut for the cooking method, seasoning with salt and pepper, and finishing with aromatic herbs.
What most impressed her was the vitello tonnato—thinly sliced veal served with a thick, creamy tuna-flavored sauce which, she said, was a revelation of textures. His cooking was complex and comforting, a fine example of Italy’s best: straightforward, accurate, and harmonious.
Last August, Tanco, founder and chairman of the Bizu Groupe, invited the former corporate chef to help with her restaurants. She wanted him to improve Bizu’s desserts and introduce Italian concepts.
Boggio came in November and saw the space originally intended for Bizu on Salcedo Street in Legazpi Village. He suggested opening an Italian restaurant instead. Tanco’s condition was to name the restaurant similarly to Bizu, which means “kiss” in French. Therefore, last January, Al Bacchio, “to kiss” in Italian, opened to a full house.
Tanco explains that al bacchio also means “chef’s kiss,” a gesture of extreme satisfaction. It involves touching your fingertips to your lips and then spreading them outward, signifying the food or service is as delightful as a kiss.
Simple ingredients
Boggio, raised in Turin, attributes his culinary talent to his nonna (grandmother) and mother, who instilled in him a deep respect for food and taught him to cook with simple ingredients, even optimizing leftovers.
“Life was expensive, and money was scarce, but we had to make do with what we had. I refined the potato and leek soup, a staple in every kitchen. Today, I create an elegant version with roasted or grilled lobster or prawns, but my foundation remains humble food.”
He demonstrates this resourcefulness by making chocolate cake from stale bread, enriched with quality milk, eggs, chocolate chips, and cocoa powder.
Boggio’s career as a corporate chef for Marriott International and as an ambassador of Italian cuisine has taken him across the globe, from the Mediterranean and Middle East to California, Hawaii, Japan, and Pune, India, where he spent 14 years. He also worked in private restaurants in Ireland and Denmark.
After retiring from a 40-year career in the industry, he began teaching master cooking classes in Turin, where he met Tanco. He shared his expertise in making gnocchi fritto (fried dough), and various chicken and meat dishes.
Upon arriving in Manila, Boggio assessed the local Italian restaurants and found them falling short of the standards set by his nonna’s cooking and his extensive experience.
Roman ‘pinsa’
He curated Al Bacchio’s menu to emphasize authentic flavors and precise cooking techniques. A standout item is the Roman flatbread pinsa, a more digestible alternative to pizza. Its distinctive, cloud-like crust results from a dough made with rice and soy flours, making it gluten-free and oval-shaped. Like pizza, it can be topped with tomato sauce, cheeses, vegetables, salmon, Parma ham, bagna cauda, pepperoni, and his signature arugula.
“I make pinsa because everyone is doing pizza, but often incorrectly,” Boggio explains. “So, it’s better to switch to pinsa.”
Many factors, including fermentation, water, and temperature, affect pizza dough. Boggio argues that crucially, most pizzas in the Philippines lack the “culture”—the accumulated knowledge, traditions, and social practices—that surround this popular food.
“Some learn how to make pizza from YouTube,” he says. “The information from the internet is often inaccurate.”
Customers at Al Bacchio delight in Boggio’s lasagna, prepared fresh daily, featuring layers of parmesan, mozzarella, and fontina cheeses, all enveloped in a rich Bolognese sauce. For vegetarian diners, he offers a flavorful pesto sauce as a substitute. The ravioli with spinach and ricotta provides a textural contrast: firm pasta yielding to a creamy filling with a subtle garlic kick.
Another popular dish, the chicken parmigiana, is a harmony of crispy fried cutlets, soft mozzarella, and the vibrant tang of tomato sauce.
The Italian beef tagliata, a grilled and sliced beef dish, exemplifies Boggio’s philosophy of honest cuisine. Served with arugula and French fries, its appeal lies in the inherent quality of the meat and the crustiness. “It’s very simple, no need for fancy presentation. It’s like a beautiful woman who doesn’t need makeup,” he explains.
Authentic tiramisu
While tiramisu and panna cotta are common Italian restaurant desserts, Boggio asserts that his versions are crafted using his grandmother’s cherished recipes. His tiramisu uses Passalacqua coffee, chosen for its ideal espresso strength. “To make tiramisu, you need high-quality coffee. And add liqueurs, amaretto, sweetener, and mascarpone—not cream cheese,” he says.
The ladyfingers or strips of sponge cakes are also imported from Italy.
Filipinos are also enjoying his profiteroles, made with choux pastry filled with cream and drizzled with chocolate fondue. “For me, panna cotta should be silky, like ice cream,” he says, contrasting it with the solid or gelatin texture he’s often served.
Boggio’s personal favorite dish is his nonna’s tagliatelle with Bolognese sauce, slow-cooked for a minimum of four hours. “The best ingredient is the love that you put inside. Because food is a manifestation of love,” the chef concludes.
