Zurich and Geneva: A tale of two cities

From the roof-deck of the Mandarin Oriental Savoy in Zurich, formerly known as Baur en Ville, the city’s first hotel that opened in 1838 —PHOTOS BY MARBEE SHING-GO

Switzerland has always been a place where contrasts sit comfortably side by side—snowcapped peaks and pristine lakes, haute couture, and homegrown craftsmanship.

Nowhere is this duality more apparent than in its two largest cities: Zurich and Geneva. Together, they offer travelers a snapshot of Switzerland’s quiet elegance and restless energy—two sides of the same polished coin.

The beauty of Switzerland? There’s no need to choose. A sleek SBB (Swiss Federal Railways) train—always on time—whisks you between Zurich’s buzzing streets and Geneva’s lakeside calm in just under three hours. And if that’s not enough, SBB even offers a door-to-door luggage service, so you can travel light and free.

The Negrellisteg Bridge, with its striking spiral-shaped towers near Zurich main station

Geneva is a master class in luxury done with quiet confidence. Its waterfront is calm and elegant, like a silk scarf in the breeze. The Jet d’Eau adds a gentle flourish, a signature mark on the city’s skyline.

For our first meal, we settled in at F.P. Journe Le Restaurant—a collaboration between master watchmaker François-Paul Journe and chef Dominique Gauthier. This “bistrot chic” is as precise as the timepieces that built Geneva’s reputation, blending vintage décor with a menu that respects both the seasons and the city’s rich culinary heritage. Here, we discovered that in Geneva, the best things come from perfect partnerships—whether in watches or on a plate.

A unique Zurich experience is the sauna boat. These boats provide a private spa setting with panoramic views of the lake.

After lunch, the Patek Philippe Museum took us on a journey through five centuries of horological artistry. Dr. Peter Friess, the museum’s curator, made sure we didn’t just see watches, but that we also understood the innovation and legacy behind them. In the city that is home to Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille, it was the perfect introduction to Geneva’s lifelong devotion to excellence.

Of course, Geneva’s luxury isn’t confined to ticking hands and polished cases. At Victorinox, we had the chance to assemble and personalize our own Swiss Army Knives—a surprisingly satisfying experience that left us with a one-of-a-kind souvenir.

Quiet grandeur

Our guide, Catherine Girod, took us off the beaten path and into Geneva’s layered past, revealing secret corners and stories that spoke of centuries-old resilience and quiet grandeur. Geneva may be small by global standards, but it rewards curiosity in spades.

Then, there was Bongénie Genève, a multifloor fashion haven that has been a symbol of Geneva style since 1891. Refined, family-owned, and brimming with labels that transform window-shopping into an art form, it’s a place that feels like the city’s stylish soul in miniature.

Lunch at Le Jardinier at The Woodward was a seasonal affair. Chef Alain Verzeroli’s kitchen champions a simple philosophy—let the produce do the talking—and in Geneva, that’s a language everyone speaks fluently.

Spring on a plate—a pretty starter from the seasonal menu at Le Jardinier at the Woodward Geneva

A highlight of our Geneva stay was the Welo AperoTuk tour—an electric tuk tuk ride that brought us from the city’s elegant streets into the rolling vineyards of Mandement. Winemaker Sophie Dugerdil of La Cabuche shared her wines. My favorite was the Garanoir, a bright, cherry-noted red that captured Geneva’s quiet charm in a glass. And because Geneva knows how to end on a high note, dinner at Domaine de Châteauvieux, a Michelin-starred classic, delivered a surprise tasting menu that showcased Swiss hospitality at its best.

Swiss wines, hard to find abroad, easy to love here.

If Geneva is all about taking your time, Zurich is about making the most of it. Switzerland’s largest city is a place where old money and new ideas meet, where bankers and artists cross paths in riverside cafés.

Nod to tradition

Our Zurich story began on a sweet note at the Lindt Home of Chocolate. Did you know that people used to be able to pay for things with cocoa beans? We learned about this and other fascinating cocoa tales on our tour of the multimedia chocolate museum.

Getting creative (and deliciously messy) during a chocolate design session at the Lindt factory in Zurich

My favorite part? Watching chocolate production up close—where the experience and passion of Lindt master chocolatiers meet cutting-edge technology. We followed every step, from bean to liquid chocolate to perfect bars and pralines, all while sampling different flavors of Lindt’s signature chocolate. It was a delicious chocolate adventure that reminded us that in Zurich, even the smallest pleasures are crafted with care.

At Parfumerie Osswald on Bahnhofstrasse, luxury took on a new dimension. This family-run perfumery has been curating rare fragrances since 1921, and whether you’re a collector or simply curious, it’s the sort of place that feels like a well-kept secret.

Crafted in Zurich and found in the bathrooms of Switzerland’s most distinguished hotels and department stores—like Globus and Dolder Grand—Soeder is redefining luxury personal care with its sustainable, all-natural formulas.

Lunch at the Savoy Brasserie at the Mandarin Oriental Savoy was a delicious nod to tradition. I ordered Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, veal in a creamy white wine sauce, a dish that felt like it could have been served 100 years ago, and probably was. The hotel itself (formerly Baur en Ville and Savoy Baur en Ville) is Zurich’s oldest, at 182 years old. In Zurich, heritage isn’t just a buzzword—it’s on the menu.

But Zurich also has its eye on the future. On our “Made in Zurich” tour, our guide, Ity, brought us to see local innovators redefining what “Swiss-made” can be. At Soeder, natural skincare meets refillable bottles—a quiet revolution in sustainability. At Zuriga, precision espresso machines are crafted with a blend of modern technology and artisanal flair, an approach that captures Zurich’s dedication to both style and substance. And at Beat Heuberger’s chili emporium, we found hot sauces that prove that, even in buttoned-up Zurich in cool May, there’s room for a little heat.

Just a “tuk tuk” ride less than 30 minutes from Geneva are vineyards and aperitifs in nature’s backyard.

If there’s a perfect time to visit Zurich, it’s during Food Zurich, the city’s 11-day celebration of everything delicious. This year’s is its 10th edition. Running from June 12 to June 22, it promises over 100 events, from urban gardening tours and cooking classes to pop-up dinners and citywide culinary showdowns. We joined the world’s longest picnic table by the lake last May 24, sampling dishes in a picnic setting from up-and-coming chefs. Zurich’s food scene is as diverse as its people—and during Food Zurich, it’s also a whole lot of fun.

Food Zurich is an 11-day celebration of everything delicious from the city.

The joy of the journey

What ties it all together is Switzerland’s famously efficient transport system. SBB’s trains, trams, and boats move with a precision that feels almost magical, and with the SBB’s door-to-door luggage service, you’re free to collect memories, not muscle aches.

Beyond Zurich and Geneva, day trips reveal even more of Switzerland’s quiet magic. From Geneva, medieval towns and vineyard walks are practically at your doorstep. From Zurich, charming Engelberg is just an hour away—a postcard-perfect alpine village where the snow-dusted peaks of Mount Titlis frame the horizon and the peaceful Engelberg Monastery whispers of centuries of history.

Or head to Lake Lucerne (under an hour by train from Zurich)—where deep-blue waters mirror the surrounding peaks of Rigi and Pilatus, and the city of Lucerne’s old-world beauty is matched only by its vibrant cultural scene.

Made in Zurich Frietag bags- as urban and effortlessly cool as the city itself.

Hop aboard the historic steamboat Gallia, Europe’s fastest steamboat since 1913, for a journey that’s as much about the views as it is about the exquisite five-course regional menu served onboard. With the Gallia’s Flying Service concept, you can savor three courses wherever you like—on deck or in the elegant interior—without missing a moment of the spectacular Alpine panorama. In Switzerland, even a meal on a boat feels like something out of a dream.

So, Zurich or Geneva? One fast and driven, the other slow and refined. In one, fashion is understated; in the other, it’s effortlessly elegant. One rewards curiosity while the other invites you to linger.

The Jet d’Eau in all its splendor at dusk, perfectly framed by the window of the Hotel d’Angleterre in Geneva

But here’s the secret: There’s no need to choose. In Switzerland, the real luxury is how seamlessly you can move between the two—between lakeside calm and city hum, between tradition and tomorrow.

If you’re anything like me, you’ll find yourself loving both cities for what they are: distinct, proud, and somehow perfectly Swiss. And there’s a deeper layer to this ease of movement: Switzerland’s Swisstainable commitment, which means traveling here also means traveling responsibly—mindful of nature and the communities that make these places so special.

So, take the train, try the chocolate, hop on a tram, have Swiss wine, watch the swans, and linger a little longer. In Switzerland, there’s no one right way to see it all. And in the end, that’s the beauty of the journey.