Warming climate threatens Spain’s favorite Christmas dish: The barnacle

PRIZED DELICACY A fisherman shows off barnacles—treasured by Spaniards for their flavor and difficulty to harvest. —REUTERS

CORME, Spain—On the craggy rocks on northwestern Spain’s treacherous Costa da Morte (Death Coast), wetsuit-clad fishermen dodge crashing waves as they pick barnacles, a prized Christmas delicacy facing decline due to climate change and other factors.

Fetching up to 200 euros ($208) per kilogram during the holiday season, the gooseneck barnacle from the Galicia region has long been treasured by Spaniards for both its flavor and difficulty to harvest.

Manolo, 54, who is a barnacle picker, uses a tool called ferrada to pick barnacles on the rocks of Coast of Death (Costa Da Morte) on the Ocean Atlantic in the Galicia region, near Corme, Spain December 21, 2024. —PHOTOS BY NACHO DOCE/REUTERS

Barnacle picker, Pachi, 53, talks with a fellow as they pick barnacles on the rocks of Coast of Death (Costa Da Morte) on the Ocean Atlantic in the Galicia region, near Corme, Spain December 21, 2024.

However, the rise in sea temperatures driven by climate change has severely affected barnacle habitats, as they thrive in icy waters.

A recent study by the University of Vigo also linked changing wave patterns to lower quality in the shellfish.

Israel Martinez, an auctioneer in the A Coruna fish market, said that there used to be double or triple the number of barnacles just 10 years ago.

Adriana, 31, buys boxes with barnacles in front of Israel Martinez, an auctioneer, that were caught off the Atlantic coasts of Galicia during an auction ahead of Christmas celebrations in the port of Coruna, Spain December 21, 2024.

Jose Luis, 75, who is a barnacle picker, places barnacles in a bag called Mandileta, that were picked from the rocks of Coast of Death (Costa Da Morte) on the Ocean Atlantic in the Galicia region, near Corme, Spain December 21, 2024.

‘Percebeiros’

Despite state regulations—such as limiting daily harvests to 7 kilograms per fisherman—illegal fishing has surged due to the barnacles’ high value.

Licensed “percebeiros,” or barnacle pickers, have called for increased policing of the coast to deter poachers.

Their job is classified as a risky profession due to the adverse work conditions.

Barnacle picker Moncho Canizas, 53, looks at the sea after being hit by a wave as he picks barnacles on the rocks of Coast of Death (Costa Da Morte) on the Ocean Atlantic in the Galicia region, near Corme, Spain December 20, 2024.

Barnacle pickers German Vidal, 34, his brother Roberto Vidal, 36, Kevin Facal, 31, and Pachi, 53, run away from the waves while collecting barnacles on the rocks of Coast of Death (Costa Da Morte) on the Ocean Atlantic in the Galicia region, near Corme, Spain December 20, 2024.

“The percebeiro trade on the Costa da Morte is dying. This is due to climate change, absurd laws, illegal fishing and a lack of workers,” 36-year-old Roberto Vidal, who started out as a percebeiro at 16, told Reuters.

He said there used to be between 100 and 200 percebeiros in his town of Corme. Now, there are around 30.

Fellow percebeiro Serafin Rodriguez said that future generations would be unable to follow in his footsteps due to declining barnacle populations.

Reuters

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