‘Michelin moment’: Shattering exceptionalism

Oxford–”The food scene in [the Philippines] is really vibrant with local specialties that are different from one city to another,” the former French Ambassador to Manila, Michèle Boccoz, told me during the inaugural episode of my “The View from Manila” television show. The good ambassador, who assiduously sought out the country’s leading intellectuals and power brokers even at the height of the pandemic, was not alone in her observations.

Months later, a senior Japanese diplomat shared with me his irrepressible delight at the superb quality of the culinary landscape in the Philippines. After heartfelt discussions about Haruki Murakami’s oeuvre, which enlivened our otherwise stale discussions on geoeconomics, he expressed pleasant astonishment at the sheer quality and quantity of top-level Japanese restaurants in Manila. But beyond our shared love for Japanese cuisine and literature, he made sure to remind me of his profound fascination with Filipino food.

“Your food is really good … our Filipino chef regularly prepares us the most exquisite experience of your rich culinary tradition. But it seems Filipino food is [shockingly] underappreciated internationally!” he added, with a touch of lament. It was a delicate discussion. Food, of course, is no small matter. Just like language, any national cuisine is a window into the soul of every nation. In the unforgettable words of the late Anthony Bourdain: “Food is everything we are … an extension of nationalist feeling, ethnic feeling, your personal history, your province, your region, your tribe, your grandma.”

Over the coming months, however, I caught wind of the news that the more visionary elements of our leadership were scrambling to bring the much-vaunted Michelin Guide folks to our major cities. It was both a logistical and a financial heavy lift. It goes without saying that I’m a huge critic of our excruciatingly desperate tendency to seek external affirmation, especially from the West.

Think of all the Caucasian vloggers who seamlessly rack up millions of views by articulating a few words in the Filipino language or feigning appreciation for our culture. Some even became overnight “national heroes” by embracing the most egregiously “orientalist” tropes—dressing in barong every single day and even putting on a bandana, even if you can hardly find a single modern Filipino dressed that way these days. Put a balisong in his hand, and, voilà, you got a “blonde Katipunero”!

But a Michelin affirmation matters. Practically speaking, it literally puts a country on the map—or to be more precise, on the Michelin Guide app’s map. It helps draw in high-quality investors while encouraging local elites to spend more money at home rather than splurge abroad in search of “Michelin experience.” I’m more of a fan of Italian and Persian (imperial) culinary traditions, but, lest we forget, the French are, indeed, the “standard of civilization” when it comes to high-end cuisine—thanks to their centuries-old dominance in international diplomacy, brand-building, and cultural refinement. Above all, Michelin recognition could go a long way in shattering our self-defeating “negative exceptionalism”: namely, the ingrained tendency to think the Philippines is hopelessly corrupt and uncompetitive on the global stage, even if we are blessed with all the ingredients of national success.

Earlier this year, I heard through my contacts that Michelin critics were already in town. So I raised the issue with Boccoz’ successor. “One thing that France and the Philippines have in common is our passion for food. This news that Michelin is coming to the Philippines, that’s great because it will mean acknowledg[ment] of your own gastronomic assets,” Marie Fontanel told me during another episode of “The View from Manila.” So this year’s Michelin acknowledgement of our culinary excellence, including the much-vaunted stars for as many as nine Philippine-based restaurants, was a big deal even for ordinary observers like me. I was immensely glad for Josh Boutwood, who was clearly “over the moon” for the two (out of three) star recognition, but also for the relatively new “Celera” under the aegis of chefs Nicco Santos and Quenee Villar. They’re all incredibly hardworking folks who have achieved global renown against all odds. Surely, there are many other deserving restaurants, so I hope, Michelin awards serve as an inspiration for the constant pursuit of excellence, which would entail not only a more proactive “national branding” campaign by our tourism authorities, but also logistical and aesthetic upgrades, as well as less sugar and more dietary balance in our cuisine. Yes, the Filipino is world-class too!

—————-

richard.heydarian@inquiirer.net