Rebranding Jolo

Sulu is ready to welcome tourists. That is the message Governor Abdusakur “Toto” Tan II has been sending as he promotes the province’s natural beauty and rich culture. He asserted that improving peace and order makes tourism possible.

This is the most welcome news about Sulu in a long, long while. And I say it’s time to rebrand these lovely islands in the southern Philippines.

Tan may recall when the media often described Jolo as the “kidnapping capital of the world.” It was the summer of 2000. His father and namesake was governor, and on their spacious veranda and front yard, over 50 local and foreign journalists gathered, waiting for the emissary to return with a message from the Abu Sayyaf Group.

The elder former Governor Tan was coordinating the negotiations for the release of 10 European tourists and 11 resort workers (nine Malaysians, two Filipinos) the militants had abducted from Sipadan Island, Malaysia, on April 23, 2000. The mass abductions sparked a global crisis. Embassies sent representatives to Jolo for information on their missing nationals. Kin of the abducted wanted to send water, medicines, and toiletries. Police and military were on high alert.

It was an agonizing, uncomfortable wait under the baking Jolo sun. The police and the military were clearly concerned about the safety of the town’s many visitors, including the German TV crew I was producing for. Locals advised me to keep “my foreigners” behind the concrete walls and armored gate of Sakur Tan’s compound.

Inside the church-run De Mazenod Formation Center, where many foreigners were billeted, they felt safe. But outside, the risks were unpredictable.

At a meeting between Abu Sayyaf leader Kumander Robot and chief government negotiator Robert Aventajado in Talipao, about 30 minutes from Jolo, teenage Abu Sayyaf members with armalites taller than they were descended upon the media and demanded personal items, such as rubber shoes, shirts and jackets, watches, jewelry, caps, batteries, and sunshades. They spared work gadgets like cameras, cell phones, and tape recorders, a strategic victory for the press who insisted on keeping them. Many journalists returned to the hotel that night wearing cheap slippers and ukay-ukay shirts.

At the market, photographers buying fresh fish to grill escaped a grenade blast by a few minutes. Another group went for a refreshing swim on a secluded beach and returned to the hotel barefoot and shirtless. They told their colleagues that Abu Sayyaf stripped them of their valuables and confiscated their state-of-the-art cameras, holding the equipment hostage to be released in exchange for a million euros.

For Jolo to rebrand, its communities must believe in the effort and see a stake in its success. That means more than smiling for a camera, wearing a malong for a photo, or waving at visitors. Politicians, educators, and religious leaders may need to remind some of their provincemates that kidnapping for ransom or terrorism has no place in Sulu’s future.

The provincial government needs to explain cultural and religious sensitivities in advance to avoid misunderstanding. For instance, swimming is allowed, but swimmers, especially women, must be modestly covered. These dress codes must be phrased carefully and mindfully to give practical guidance, not to make visitors feel unwelcome.

Infrastructure matters just as much. Jolo needs reliable air transportation, clean and decent accommodations, medical facilities, stable internet, and dependable communications. These days, fast-craft and RoRo vessels shuttle between Zamboanga City and Jolo, and remain the main link to mainland Mindanao. President Marcos reportedly directed the Department of Transportation (DOTr) to address Jolo’s concerns last February, but Tan lamented that DOTr has said nothing since then.

“Our request is simple—just one flight a week from Cebu Pacific and one from Philippine Airlines,” Tan reportedly said. Similar flights operated before, so why not restore them and jump-start Jolo’s tourism? A minor upgrade on the airport terminal and the wharf would be a welcome development.

For now, domestic tourists are enjoying night strolls and kopi lattes in a town brightened by solar lights. Former journalist Sylvia Calderon, who lives in Jolo, noted that existing hotels are expanding and two more are under construction. Restaurants and cafes have sprouted, and visitors are beginning to frequent the beaches of Quezon and Mauban. “Coming soon, another beach resort in Patikul,” Sylvia said.

Tan has made the call, and the communities have begun to respond. The challenge now is to extend this vibrancy beyond Jolo town and entice tourists to explore the island. That would depend on Joloanos and the government working together to sustain the conditions that make tourism possible. The country will be watching and cheering: way to go, Jolo!

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Fe B. Zamora is a former Philippine Daily Inquirer reporter. She covered national defense and politics.