The time for a non-alcoholic shift is now
Like many chefs, Chele Gonzalez has made a career out of evolution. Just take a look at how he’s unlocked his era of tasting menus at Gallery by Chele as well as his consistent churn of concepts that address the demands of various market demographics.
Coconut at its core
This confidence in creative growth makes itself felt once again in his updated The Tree of Life menu. Since launching the coconut-driven tasting menu, Gonzalez and his team never stopped their research on the fruit’s multitude of applications. But it was on their collaboration with beverage consultant, sommelier, and “wild fermenter” Marina Wilkis—who has worked with the likes of Mirazur, Central, and Locavore NXT—that Gonzalez saw yet another fresh potential to the coconut’s life-giving experience.
The thought process behind the concoctions was to utilize coconut products for liqueur, syrups, purees, infusions, and ferments then pair it with The Tree of Life menu. Whether intentional or not, such non-alcoholic pairings aren’t just opportunities to flex creative muscles—they are also statements of inclusivity for customers with a taste for booze-free fine dining experiences.
“The best restaurants in the world are now more conscientious about the demand for non-alcoholic beverages for those who are following a certain lifestyle or simply wanting to try something new,” says Gonzalez.
In with the old and in with the new
Early favorites such as the Palawan lobster, grouper pilpil, and Wagyu A5 courses remain, but most of the menu additions inspired by Wilkis’ work bear an unexpected mix.
The tropical knilaw is high-spirited. Bouncy rather than brooding, the yellowfin tuna, marinated in ginger oil, soaks in the milky acidity of the leche de tigre before it’s finished with granita made with dayap. Paired with the lambanog sour with kamias or the tuba with batwan lemongrass, the dish hints at the new narrative at play: that the love affair with coconut never ends.
Where the kinilaw sees Gonzalez’s menu slowly emerging with Wilkis’ beverages, his coco crab drags us into the depths of his fascination with ginataan. “I never saw this in Spain before… where crab is simply grilled, steamed, or boiled in water,” he admits. “But here I thought it was an amazing way to cook crab that remains respectful to its flavors, to boil it in coconut milk with ginger, lemongrass, and aromatics.”
The formula is signature Gonzalez. He plays with aligue and ikura, then builds them up into glassy and foamy dreamscapes. The liquid vision also comes to life in this part of the meal where amino-based drinks channel more umami in the dish: a highball with green tea kombucha and tapuey, and a genmaicha soda infused with the flavors of rice and seaweed.
A new dessert, meanwhile, dedicates itself to coconut textures that highlight the fruit’s byproducts like aminos (a soy sauce substitute) and tuba. Comprising three little “whispers of flavor,” Gonzalez characterizes coconut in small, beautiful forms that fit into the storyline he’s nurtured.
The one-two punch of the cold soufflé and dulce de leche is equal parts light and rich, while the espuma of coconut milk and buko (with a little bit of lime) indulges in a kind of break before you move your focus onto the latik ice cream sandwich.
For a new generation of drinkers
At this point, curating a non-alcoholic selection that becomes part of the core identity of the restaurant—and dare we say, rivals its wine pairings—says a lot about Gonzalez’s adaptability to global market demands and cultural shifts happening among the younger generation.
“When I went to Europe, so many people really focused on and developed [non-alcoholic drink programs],” he says. “Now, non-alcoholic beverages are a must.”
At Gallery by Chele, no matter how your meal ends—whether with a sip of nutty latik liqueur or a swig of fragrant coconut cream tea—there will always be the taste of life springing from somewhere in your taste buds.
The menu is available for both lunch and dinner. For reservations and inquiries, contact +63 917 546 1673
