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What’s melting and making waves on menus?

Eric Nicole Salta

If the last month or so is any indication, nothing seems to dampen the enthusiasm happening across the F&B and hospitality industry. Despite global economic woes and the impact of inflation, things continue to look up for brands, with some even initiating projects that restore a little optimism and confidence in people.

In Gateway Mall 2, Australia-trained Filipino chef Olie Buenviaje seeks to celebrate local seafood in an elevated, mall-based “dampa” restaurant. Meanwhile, it’s also interesting to see how robust the energy is in some places such as Bacolod, where local cheese brand Wild Pastures Cheese Co. is delivering on social enterprise and European-style cheese made with Filipino milk.

Wild Pastures Cheese Co. drives social change with artisanal cheese

There’s nothing cheesy about Wild Pastures Cheese Co., even if they are in the business of producing fromage. Look closely at its model, and you’ll understand why.

A strategic partnership between Australian humanitarians and cheesemakers Christina and Ian McKay (who also founded the Mindanao nonprofit Noble Endeavours), Ramon “Chin Chin” Uy Jr. and Francine Uy of Fresh Start Organics, and Ramon Uy Sr. of Puro Organics, Wild Pastures is proving to be an industry game-changer.

Wild Pastures is built as a social enterprise with clear mandates: put Negros on the global map as a sustainability destination, deliver clean and premium artisan cheeses with a distinct Negros character, support local dairy farmers through partnerships, preserve traditional cheesemaking techniques, and continue to cultivate the artisanal cheese culture in the Philippines.

“From a conversation, we started talking about partnering together because we already have the facility and infrastructure and farmers who are practicing dairy organic agriculture,” explains Chin Chin about their partnership with the McKays. “We started making cheese last year, and our goal is to make European-style cheese made from raw, unpasteurized milk.”

“Most of the cheese we find in the supermarket right now is pasteurized and industrial. Even in France, you can’t find Camembert or brie that’s made the traditional way… we want you to experience how we raise the cows… in a pasture, where they eat grass, they live a happy life. Anything you grow sustainably always tastes better,” adds Chin Chin.

Traceability is a key component in Wild Pastures’ products—claiming it can trace every single wheel of cheese back to the moment the cow was milked—and it is one that shouldn’t be overlooked or undervalued in an era when consumers are more particular about provenance. A survey of 2,000 UK adults found that 57 percent see where food originates as important, but so is learning about and connecting with the people behind the product. In Japan, meanwhile, consumers consider local food safer.

Since launching Wild Pastures initially as a business-to-business (B2B) brand, the McKays and the Uys needed to take a real look at whether their homegrown artisanal cheese brand needed to be rolled out to the wider public after gaining recent online traction. And perhaps unsurprisingly, the response has been positive.

The lineup not only features a range of fresh standard varieties (cream, Greek yoghurt, kesong puti, halloumi, feta) but also a variety of aged specialty cheeses. There’s Azul Ginto that provides a creamy and buttery flavor with a delicate blue cheese twist; the Camembert-like Kesong Panganod (either firm or soft) with an oozy texture and earthy taste; and the Kesong Reyna—aged up to six weeks—that yields a mild, slightly nutty mouthfeel and pairs well with crackers, mangoes, and pinot noir.

But beyond making a repertoire of local, organic, and artisan cheese, social change is also at the forefront of Wild Pastures’ aspirations. Everything they build, it seems, is part of a process of fostering local communities and building better societies. Milk is sourced directly from organic dairy farmers in Murcia, Negros Occidental, to eliminate income instability for smallholders, guaranteeing consistent buyers and fair pricing.

In addition, the enterprise is also dedicated to uplifting these local farming communities through grassroots initiatives, including children’s nutrition and adult literacy programs.

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Baked branzino with lemon butter (center) with chargrilled Japanese octopus, baby squid in olive oil, and freshly shucked Pacific oysters

Mall-based Seafood 8 by Olio’s aligns with Filipino dampa culture

Dampa gets an elevated makeover in Australia-based Filipino chef Ali Buenviaje’s brand new restaurant: Seafood 8 by Olio. Located on the ground floor of Gateway Mall 2, the Sorsogon-born Buenviaje brings his wealth of experience working at establishments such as Le Meurice in Paris, Al Mahara in Dubai, and Caprice in Hong Kong into the seafood bistro that capitalizes on Filipinos’ demand for healthy protein.

Despite a stellar international career, Seafood 8 by Olio’s is Filipino through and through—thanks to a personal philosophy shaped by Buenviaje’s late grandfather, Jose Aviles, who taught him the value of generosity, community, and sharing meals with others.

“Seafood 8 by Olio’s is my way of celebrating the incredible seafood we have in this country while presenting it through the lens of everything I’ve learned around the world,” says Buenviaje.

Buenviaje offers standard seafood options like Pacific oysters and squid, along with Japanese octopus, tiger lobster, and fish varieties such as Dover sole, tuna from GenSan, and branzino (sea bass)—incorporated with flavors and cooked into formats that bring out the best of each product. Think crab in Bicol express linguine or Batangas tiger prawns baked and drenched in mirin and miso den sauce.

To stay ahead of more discerning consumer preferences, Buenviaje’s eight signature sauces are key in customizing the paluto-style dining experience, which include Kalamansi Hollandaise, Olio’s Chili Supreme XO Sauce, and Nasal Citrus Ginger, among others.

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