The Philippines’ coffee paradox
Last May, I took a one-day Barista 101 training course to learn more about the science and art behind one of the world’s most popular drinks. As a pharmacist, I’ve explored the chemistry of coffee and its effects on the human body.
During the training, I discovered that just a few seconds of extracting ground coffee can determine whether an espresso is sour and under-extracted or bitter and over-extracted.
I also learned firsthand that the calibration of espresso machine and the particle size of ground coffee are vital in achieving the ideal extraction time of 25-30 seconds (some say 20-30 seconds) to achieve a good espresso.
Just like compounding a prescription requires precise equipment and minimal error, so does pulling a great espresso shot.
Additionally, steaming milk for a latte requires similar precision. If you overheat the milk, the proteins break down, the natural sugars burn, and the delicate sweetness that balances the bitterness of the espresso is lost.
What surprised me most was latte art. I never realized that creating a tulip or rosette design on espresso takes many practices to get it right.
These experiences led me to ponder a bigger question: why does the Philippines, one of the few countries that can grow all four major commercial coffee species (Arabica, Robusta, Liberica, and Excelsa) still import more coffee than it exports?
My interest in coffee goes beyond just brewing. Two years ago, I had the chance to try Mt. Apo civet coffee in Davao, one of the Philippines’ unique specialty coffees. This coffee comes not just from beans that have passed through the digestive system of the civet animal, but it also grows in the rich volcanic soil of the country’s highest mountain.
Later, during a trip to Bali, Indonesia, I tasted civet coffee again (locally known as kopi luwak) and had the chance to grind and roast their coffee beans. I even spotted two nocturnal civets sleeping during the day, one in a cage and the other outside, raising animal welfare concerns. And yet Indonesia has turned this industry into an international brand and tourist attraction.
The Philippines has a rich coffee history. Batangas is renowned for Barako, a bold Liberica variety symbolizing Filipino coffee culture. During the Spanish era, it drove the country’s coffee boom, later inspiring neighboring province of Cavite.
Up north, the cool highlands of the Cordillera including Benguet, Ifugao, and Mountain Province offer ideal conditions in growing Arabica. Coffee grows well in cool highlands because the beans ripen more slowly and develop better flavor.
With this, I remember the Marlboro Hills in Sagada, Mountain Province where I sipped a freshly brewed coffee of Arabica before the hike. This also brings out the memories of a beautiful mountain sunrise in Kalinga when I got a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od, although Kalinga focuses more on Robusta due to their lower terrain.
When I traveled in the Negros Island, I had a great taste of their premium blend of Arabica and Robusta, particularly at El Ideal, the oldest bakery in Silay City. The volcanic slopes around Mt. Kanlaon in Negros Island provide an excellent area for coffee production.
Down south, Mindanao plays a crucial role with coffee-growing areas like Bukidnon, Sultan Kudarat, and Davao.
Given all these, one might expect the Philippines to be a global coffee force but the reality is different.
Filipinos consume more coffee than what we produce that is why traders rely heavily on imported beans from Vietnam, Brazil, and Indonesia.
When I asked the barista who trained me, he mentioned that most of their coffee beans come from Brazil and Vietnam although a few come from Cordillera and Bukidnon.
Several factors also contribute to this imbalance such as lack of financing and modern techniques, aging trees, typhoons, and shifting weather patterns. Another is the aging agricultural workforce. While many of the younger generation are passionate in coffee farming, it requires long-term dedication and not only swayed by trends.
Yet, despite these challenges are real opportunities. If the Philippines wants to improve its global standing, Arabica deserves the most urgent focus. Because of its smoother flavors and complex aromas, it leads world consumption and is even preferred by international chains like Starbucks.
This, however, doesn’t mean we forget the other varieties. Robusta is dominant in instant coffee industry mainly due to its cheaper price and resistance to harsh processing. Barako is a uniquely Filipino product. Excelsa attracts specialty buyers due to its one-of-a-kind taste.
The natural advantages are already in our favor. Now is the time to act. To champion the farmers, overhaul outdated production methods, invest in science-driven trainings, and forge a genuine partnership between government, industry, and the young Filipinos who will inherit what we build.
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Teresa May Bandiola is an academic pharmacist, young adult author, medical activist, podcast host, and a travel vlogger.
