The sizzling debate behind sisig
Ruston Banal says there is perhaps no other Filipino dish as controversial—and passionately debated—as sisig. Its origins, how it should be prepared, and what truly belongs in it remain subjects of endless discussion.
“Put an egg or mayonnaise on top of this sizzling chopped pork dish mixed with onions and chilies, post it on social media, and in no time, it is bound to ignite a frenzy—especially among Kapampangans, many of whom passionately claim to be the inventors and rightful keepers of sisig,” Banal says.
Of tasty origins
For years, the Kapampangan author, local historian, and food and heritage advocate has been tracing the story of sisig through old dictionaries, passed-down stories, oral histories, and family recipes that existed long before the now-famous sizzling version served in Angeles City.
Many trace modern sisig to Aling Lucing Cunanan, who, in the 1970s, near the old train station beside Clark Air Base, began serving chopped grilled pig’s ears, cheeks, and maskara soaked in vinegar as pulutan for beer drinkers and American servicemen.
Over time, the dish became wildly popular, eventually helping turn Angeles City into what many now consider the “sisig capital of the Philippines.”
In 2017, Angeles City even passed an ordinance declaring sizzling sisig babi a cultural heritage dish and protecting what it considered the “original” version—further fueling debates surrounding sisig, from whether it should be served sizzling to whether egg or mayonnaise should ever be added.
A process or a dish?
But according to Banal, versions of sisig already existed long before Aling Lucing’s now-iconic version.
One of the strongest references he found was the word “sising,” which already appeared in a 1732 Kapampangan dictionary by Fray Diego Bergano. Interestingly, the entry did not describe the sisig most Filipinos know today. Instead, it referred to a sour salad made with green papaya and chili.
That alone, Banal says, reveals something important: Sisig may not have originally referred to one fixed dish, but rather to a style or process of preparing food. As such, sisig is not limited to pork, but could refer to practically anything chopped, mixed, and steeped in vinegar.
Older Kapampangan households also served dishes called sisig matwa or quilo babi—boiled pig’s face mixed with onions, chilies, and vinegar. Dom Martin de Jesus Gomez of San Fernando recalled versions of this being casually served at home as early as the 1950s.
Another version from Betis, Guagua, long predating the Angeles sisig boom, followed a similarly simple preparation using boiled pork maskara, vinegar, onions, chili, pepper, and salt.
Banal also found references to similar vinegar-based dishes in old Tagalog dictionaries, suggesting sisig was never confined to Pampanga alone. Some theories even point to Chinese culinary influence, particularly from early Chinese communities that settled in Pampanga centuries ago and whose food traditions eventually blended into local cuisine.
An intangible culinary heritage
For Banal, the story of sisig reflects the larger story of Filipino food itself—constantly evolving, adapting, borrowing, and transforming through movement, migration, trade, and shared experience.
So did Kapampangans invent sisig?
Banal believes Pampanga undoubtedly helped shape, refine, and popularize the version many Filipinos recognize today. But his years of study also suggest that sisig, much like Filipino cuisine itself, cannot be reduced to a single inventor, town, or province.
In the end, one thing remained true for Banal: Sisig is a shared heritage that cannot belong solely to one province. Its story has traveled from place to place, kitchen to kitchen, evolving through time.
It cannot simply be called Kapampangan, Bulacan, or Ilocano—but an intangible culinary heritage shared by the Filipino people.
Ruston Banal will be presenting “Sisig: A Lunch Buffet of 15 Types of Sisig.” Those who wish to learn more about sisig can join the lecture and cooking class on May 29 at the Philippine Heritage Kitchen. You may register through +63 968 727 7834
Papaya sisig
Banal shared a papaya sisig recipe that is crisp, tangy, and naturally refreshing
Ingredients
1kg unripe papaya, sliced on the bias
1/2kg mango, diced
1/4kg cucumber, diced
Red chilies, chopped
2 cups Nipa palm vinegar
Brown sugar
Salt and ground pepper
Procedure
1. Whisk together the vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper to create the dressing base.
2. Combine the sliced papaya, diced mango, cucumber, and chilies in a bowl. Pour the liquid mixture over the top.
3. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour to let the flavors marinate. Serve cold.
Pro-tip: Keep it stored in a glass container to preserve the clean, crisp flavors of the vinegar
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